Thika Greens, Thika Sports and Sigona golf and accommodation call as we head back to Nairobi one final time

Leaving the stunning Fairmont Mount Kenya, we head back towards Nairobi.  For one last time: Nairobi is calling us.  First stop is at Thika Greens where we stay for a couple of nights.

Playing the golf at Thika Greens was tough as it had been raining - in biblical proportions, the rain hammered down all morning on the day we were meant to play, the clubhouse was getting busy with golfers waiting for the rain to - not go away, just be less heavy!

By mid afternoon, we were on our way with the sodden ground underfoot being our next challenge.  Our 94th golf course in Africa and we’re playing in the rain - which was such a rarity, we couldn’t quite believe it.  We came to the conclusion that as the end looms large, we are being prepared for our return back to Blighty and its unpredictable weather, so we sucked it up - not literally as thats just silly, but we got on with our golf early in the afternoon as the sun tried hard to shine.

The golf course is a decent test for all, the cart paths blend and fade as much as the rainbows did between the showers, occasionally making a strong appearance, before turning into a crumbly mess to drive on just as the rainbows dissipate into the atmosphere.

The roll was, whilst slow due to the wet, pretty decent and true.  A plugged ball was another thing we hadn’t experienced for a while!

so less about the weather and more about the course!

With plenty of bunkers the course dipped up and down with some long walks green to tee.  Hole 11 had water on the right and hole 13 gave us an opportunity to shoot over the water. Needless to say the course played long but there was surprisingly little standing water on the fairways, testimony to the greenskeepers vigilance.  Our caddies Emma and Jeremy were fun to play with, with a good sense of humour - they needed it with us!

In short, this course would be much better on a dry day, we were unlucky when we played, so it did show a little scruffy in places - bring back the sunshine as we’d love to revisit and play again.  We loved the golf shirts they let us wear though, perfect for the day

Staying at Thika Greens was interesting.  Food was in the clubhouse, a short walk from the accommodation block.  We were presented with regular golf club food, tasty enough, but not overly special.  Our room was quite large and had a lovely outside shower attached to the bathroom - we are massive fans of outside showers, even as the temperature dropped, to shower outside is refreshing in every way.  The rooms were fairly basic in decor and probably need a bit of an upgrade of furnishings, but were clean enough.

Visiting Thika Sports Club, a stones throw away from Thika Greens.  A couple of emails yield no response, so we visited in advance of our proposed game and pre-arranged a game at this busy and popular members club.  But when we arrived, we had to wait a long time before they would let us out.  Bearing in mind we knew there was a club competition on that morning we were told to be there early, so after setting an alarm - another strange phenomenon in Africa for us,  we arrived bright and early as promised.  Then we waited … and waited until they finally let us out to play, with the parting words, of - not ‘have a nice game’ or ‘enjoy your round’ but instead we were told in no uncertain terms  ‘don’t be slow’.  Those words were ringing in our ears as we eventually set off - it didn’t set the best tone for the day, especially as we had made an effort to get there early to be kept waiting.

Still wet underfoot, we set off to play the back nine, thats all they would let us play by the time they let us out!  We were blown away with how pretty it was.  With the lack of welcome we were expecting it to be a bit rubbish on course, but it wasn’t!

Testimony to our profession, we can easily separate the feeling of ‘being in the way ‘by the club from the good golf course they manage.  Dog legs, water holes with bamboo screens and pretty decent greens were the order of the day, and whilst a bit muddy in places, the course held up well from the recent

downpour.  Although having paths might have been easier to walk along on those wet days.  There was some road noise but also there was some birdsong, so they cancelled each other out.  We finished our nine holes at 11am, but there was no-one around to talk to, no please stay for a drink, in fact they simply avoided us as we sought a person, a body, anybody to say thank you.  We just faded away into the distance thinking it was a missed opportunity for them, especially given the nice golf course they manage.

Members streamed in as we left, fighting over our car parking space, even before we’d left!  The caddies were nice enough, they encouraged us with positive vibes but they weren’t golfers, really they were bag carriers, nice and friendly bag carriers though, and that was great.

It was a shame we were treated like we shouldn’t be there but as the course is so nice, I would definitely go back again, just maybe pick a better time next time!

Back on the road and we make our way to the outskirts of Nairobi; Sigona Golf Club.  We had also met with the Club Captain previously so were a little surprised when we weren’t expected, although we had pre-booked with him.  This was quickly resolved and we were shown to our room.  A fairly basic room, with the term ‘deluxe’ not quite fitting the bill, the room was ok for a couple of nights and it did over look the practice putting green.  We didn’t spend too long in there as we were scheduled for dinner in the clubhouse before bed.

The food was really tasty and it was apparent there is a strong Indian influence mixed with tasty Kenyan food; an infusion made in heaven.

Golf the next day and a nice welcome at the clubhouse by some really friendly members made us feel much better about the, lets be honest, not so clean and quite small room we were given.  Weirdly, the room we were shown when we visited previously was not the room, so there clearly are much better rooms available.

From the lovely members to the golf course, accommodation aside, this is a cracking place.  

Meeting a few other visitors from Nigeria on the tee, we took off behind them to play the full 18 holes in the morning sunshine; with the opening hole telling the story of what’s ahead.

Tree lined and fairly tight the fairway opened up into a good condition green.  This was a raised green that rolled well and with the birdsong in the background cheering us on, the golfing tone was set.

Being raised greens, a chip or lob shot is a good one to have in your bag, often bunkers were in play too.  Dog legs and great bunkering were adding to our delight playing Sigona.  Stroke Index 1, number 7 was a dog leg left playing about 200 yards to the dog leg, once around the corner the fairway continues around to the left to revel a strategic bunker to the right of the green. 

The back nine bought us beautifully staggered tee boxes, and although a bit of a bottle neck, the group in front let us through.  Crescent shaped water features greet us on the next par 3, again with the prolific bunkering called for careful or precise golf in order to reach the green which looked just like an island of green in amongst the sand.

I think our caddy was on super speed, not that we were slow, but his desire to get us through the course quickly was a little wearing, so we respectfully asked him to stop rushing us.  After all we weren’t holding anyone up or leaving massive gaps in front of us, we were golfing at a nice steady pace, despite the filming and photos we also covered.

It was wonderful to see caddies of all ages and genders, all doing their bit for their golf club, a sense of pride and belonging was evident too.

Such a nice course, so close to Nairobi, popular with members and with visitors, and rightly so.

Lunch on the terrace was samosa and fresh fruit - but you must try the mandazi - a fried (that sounds horrible, but isn’t) kind of lightly sugared bread, similar to a doughnut, but less doughy.  Delicious when made fresh at the club.

Next up, we head towards the Indian Ocean, via Tsavo National Park.

This trip, and what we share is a real account of what we got up to, what we felt, how we did it and what we thought. We offer a true account of what happened on the road and on the golf course, as we self drove through Kenya, and the 10 other African countries we visited.

Please feel free to use this information as you wish; whether to help with your planning for your next trip or whether it is used by the venues as constructive feedback from two established international golf travellers.

We’d love to hear your stories and your experiences too.

Don’t forget, we are here to help all you need to do is ask us rather than trying to re-invent the wheel!

Thank you for reading, please take some time to watch our you tube channel too.

Fairmont Mount Kenya - what to do at a luxury resort

We need a break - what! you need a break when your doing a trip of a lifetime, self driving around Africa, enjoying yourself and playing some golf?  Is that your break?

Well yes, but honestly, it can be quite exhausting some times!

Fairmont Mount Kenya came on our radar a while back as the place to stay for some R&R, and guess what, it has a golf course too, a double whammy we were delighted with.

We drive North from Nairobi for a couple of hours and upon arrival were immediately impressed.  Easy to find, and easy to navigate roads - of course not always the best of condition roads, but bumping along in Andi the Landy was our normal everyday life now. Who cares if the pot hole is just a few inches deep or a foot deep - vigilance on the roads is a must, especially with the Kenyan drivers!

Andi is a military grade Land Rover; stronger chassis, cubby holes/cupboards, that kind thing, and as we were heading into military land, Andi settled.  He was home looking at his Land Rover buddies pass by, bringing back memories of his time in the middle east and reminding us of the multiple dunes worth of sand we had to clean out of every orifice when we bought him home - that a a number of spent shells!  Life is now an easy trundle for Andi, well maybe not so easy on the African roads, but certainly a trundle!

The welcome starts at the gates of Fairmont Mount Kenya as they open to embrace us, and Andi into their fold.  Hidden behind these gates is a beautifully manicured garden, with a sweeping drive up to the main building where we were greeted with smiles and waves from the staff.  Our arrival was expected, and that is so refreshing in itself.  Once Andi was through those gates, he took a rest, but first we had to take some photos of him with the staff, who were so delightfully in awe of our home on wheels.

Smooth and easy and we’re checked in and led to our villa.  An enormous villa for two it has the flexibility to open up another bedroom with the central common area being shared with - wait for it - a huge open fire.  A delightful meeting place for the family or a couple of friends.

We’re in Africa, the only fires we’ve had so far are those which you toast marshmallows on.  As the day drew to an end, the temperature did drop at night - probably that and the fresh mountain air made that fire so welcome as we returned from a delicious dinner to its flickering flames and sat and watched them licking the side and pumping out welcome heat into the room.  No words were needed as the orange flames lit up our faces before we turned in for our bed.

Awake and refreshed, we bounce up - well one of us does, the other isn’t so much of a morning person - I’ll let you guess who is who, but as I waited for Steve to eventually rise from his slumber - oh did I give the game away!

The main restaurant served an amazing array of buffet options, plus one of the nicest views too.   Bright colours collide with each other as each food pile was welcomed by this wide eyed couple.  A table with a view, under a covered verandah, we enjoyed the myriad of tastes, until we could eat no more!

The extinct volcano, that forms Mount Kenya, is in the background, the maze and pool settle into the beautifully manicure gardens in the foreground, there was a lot to look at as we languished over breakfast.

Mount Kenya is the second largest mountain in Africa, after Kilimanjaro.  Fairmont Mount Kenya sits directly on the equator, and weirdly there is a balance about everything, a balance that encourages that deep breathing feeling of being happy to be alive.

Hyena

We venture, well amble into the on-site sanctuary  We’d been told about the Mountain Bongoes, and their plight of near extinction just a few years ago, so we wanted to take a look for ourselves.  First encounter through the door is a Hyena, big and just so slightly ugly, but who am I to judge, it pops his head out of the hollowed out log to see whats going on.  A smile that is worthy of a horror movie fixed upon his face.  We move on.. offering the odd backwards glance.

Mountain Bongoes

Without a Swedish furniture shop feel, the clearly designed paths take you around the ‘cages’ and into an open grass area.

Whilst some don’t like caged animals, it probably prudent to mention at this stage that Fairmont Mount Kenya Animal sanctuary is funded via donations and ticket sales.  It caters for all wild animals who have been damaged by traps, hunters or farmers, plus it caters for orphans too.  The two Mountain Bongoes didn’t have a good Mum so have been hand reared.  Given that they are (or were?) endangered I’d say thats a positive result.  There was a three week old giraffe with the cutest huge black eyes whose mother had been attacked and killed by a lion.  He too wore the battle scars but is now safely tucked up at Fairmont Mount Kenya Animal Sanctuary.

3 week old giraffe

The llama seemed out of place until you find out that they were the ‘pack-horses’ of the former owner, William Holden, who used them to climb Mount Kenya.  Now they are resting and enjoying the spoils of this beautiful place, their home.

There is a blind lioness, you can still see the slightly mottled fur to indicate she is still young.  Almost Disney’esqe as her huge eyes light her beautiful big face - she is still a predator, but she now has a life, a much easier life .  She would not survive in the wild.

The black and white long hair of the Columbus monkey

hangs down.  Beautifully conditioned any hairdresser would be proud of this client as his silky fur sways in the slight breeze.  He sits there languishing in the tree, watching us walk by as we watch him.  We’ve seen these stunning monkeys on the golf course a few times, but never this close, close enough to remark that they should be in shampoo commercial, our usual sightings of the colossus monkey is of a black and white blur as they dart around the course avoiding golfers.

Dining at Fairmont Mount Kenya is varied and delicious, even the welcome plate was skilfully presented our room.  Options include fine dining in the colobus dining room where first class dish comes out time and again.  Real foodies, I think I could be one of them!  will love the variety and tastes presented to you in this special place.  Their main restaurant served a massive selection for breakfast by way of a buffet where freshly baked treats, a variety of fruits and of course the obligatory cooked breakfast vye for you eye as you make the hard choice as to what to have that morning.

We were given the opportunity to dine in the Rose garden.  Big blousy roses compliment the smaller fingers ones, but as the weather had turned, our venue changed to the Lake House.  Any special occasion warrants this location, as we were waited on with wonderful dish after wonderful tasty dish set within the confines of the covered boat houseunder ambient lighting, the night dwindled away without notice. 

Its clear that each chef takes pride in what is presented, it looks delicious and is delicious, which ever restaurant you chose.

However, whatever your choice of venue to eat at, don’t forget your pre-dinner drinks in the Ze-bar with its quirky black and white striped chairs.  Cocktails are accompanied by home made chips/crips and olives.

Back in the room and the fireplace had been set as we languished, rubbing our rather full bellies musing the rest of the evening away.  The turn down service also included a hot water bottle in the bed - now thats thoughtful plus a little luxury.

Home made almond croissants and mixed tea (ready made Kenyan tea with milk) I’m in heaven once again as we enjoy the full array of delicacies at the breakfast buffet.  Geared up and ready to play our 93rd round of golf in Africa.

The on-site nine hole par three course is one of the many reasons you’d visit Fairmont Mount Kenya.  Bearing in mind we are playing in a natural environment, it isn’t unusual to see hoof prints from various antelope on the green, so please don’t expect perfectly manicured greens.  Its not terrible, its not shabby, but its not overly manicured either.  This golf course is an experience and a delightful one at that.  Originally a 6 hole course, it was changed to nine par 3’s in the 70’s, the greens are fairly small targets, and the little hillocks add some interests in terrain movement.  The huge established trees make this course a challenge, some narrowing the fairway so much, you need to either fly over them or scoot under them - golfers choice.

Hole 7 is unique in so far as you tee off in the Southern Hemisphere and putt out in the Northern

Hemisphere.  We loved the flag poles with their bobble cages/springs on the button to stop the baboons swinging the flag sticks back and forth and damaging the holes.  Under the watchful eye of Mount Kenya, this fun golf course is there to please you as well as to test you.

This place really does have it all as we welcome the Riuki Spa. A separate building nestled within the woods welcomes you as trickling water tests the bladder and heady scents of perfumed rooms waft as you wait for your spa specialist.  A family pummel might not sound the best, but as both Steve and myself were manipulated and stretched after our golf, it felt so good.  Steve is a bit of a spa virgin, so his rookie error was asking for a firm massage - I’m not sure he liked that or regretted it, but the photo of him afterwards tell the story!

Me, I loved it all, especially the sauna afterwards.

A damp day emerged into a sunny one as we left the spa, but the ground underfoot was soft so the safari walk was cancelled, which was a real shame as we’ve done that a few times already on our African adventure, and wanted to see what Mount Kenya could offer.

Nearing an end to our stay, just before leaving we were invited to plant a tree.  Fairmont Mount Kenya have a program to plant indigenous trees and allow guests participation - not the usual thing you’d do on holiday, but in for a penny.…  Now as our surname would suggest, we love trees, so absolutely, we’re in!

As a keen amateur gardener, I was nonetheless pleased to see the holes had already been dug for us, we simply had to pop in a ‘stick’ and back-fill it.  Not as easy as it sounds after the heavy rain, but it was all done with gusto and great humour.  A humbling and rewarding activity, and as we planted multiple trees, which we aptly named Forrest forest!

On first name terms the staff who were always pleased to see us, always greeted us with a smile, and they loved Andi the Landy - well who wouldn’t!

Their sense of service was above and beyond most places we’d stayed in Africa, maybe working in such a beautiful setting lifts their hearts as much as it does the guests who stay there.

Thank you Fairmont Mount Kenya for a delightful stay, a much needed rest and to be able to add you in our Africa 100 challenge.

Sarah & Steve

A selection of must see photos at Fairmont Mount Kenya

Our balcony visitor