Our 100 African Golf Course Challenge culminates at Vipingo Ridge, Kenya - the journey and more

When you start on a journey you often have an end in sight, a goal to achieve, something to look forward to.  This was no different for us.  Our goal was to play our 100th golf course culminating in an opportunity we’d long hankered after -  to visit and play golf in Kenya, whilst taking in all the other countries that excited or appealed to us along the way.  We set off from South Africa in August 2023 with our newly equipped old Land Rover Defender fully bush ready and more importantly, as we found out later, African road ready!

Little did we know that we would be driving through and around pot holes that could hide our 5 year old Granddaughter in, fighting for our place on the roads and teetering on the edge of hillsides marvelling at the locals screaming past, on the outside, where we feared to drive.

Our year (just over) long journey self driving around 11 African countries took us to some exciting and some scary places.   Starting in Johannesburg, South Africa through the Drakensburg to collect the Land Rover in Durban before setting off North West into Botswana, marvelling at the roadside wild animals taking the shape of the scarce shade.  Into Zimbabwe and across into Mozambique where we relished the beautiful unspoilt Indian ocean which we camped alongside multiple times.  Heading south on probably the most awful roads, we hit busy Maputo before driving back into South Africa through an elephant sanctuary.  Our objective was not to show what everybody else already knew about, more what they should know about.  Through Cape Town then up the West Side and into Namibia, where we vowed to play every golf course there - a quick google search revealed 8 courses - we played 9!

Having these points on the map as our goal meant we got to see a lot of Namibia as well as the must see tourist stuff too.

Crossing into Zambia we find we have looped ourselves a couple of times already as we end up on the other side of the Victoria Falls. Thinking it can’t possibly be as spectacular as the Zimbabwe side.  We were wrong, it was stunning; far cheaper, less touristy and just as impressive.  In Lusaka we stayed at the Ciêla Estate and played Bonanza golf course, which was our 50th round of golf in Africa - now we knew we needed to have our planned punchy golf course to finish, so I started to communicate with Alex at Vipingo Ridge.  With our  final golf course secured at the much loved Vipingo Ridge in Kenya, we still had 49 golf courses left to play - and a lot more miles to cover.  Kenya had been our radar as our final country to drive around and play some golf but we also wanted to get to know and share Kenya, the beautiful country we’d heard about.  Having secured our end point, and having a date in mind to play our 100th round reinvigorated us to continue.

Leaving Zambia we pop over to Malawi, where we played one of the nicest par 3 courses, Mlambe at the Makokola Retreat.  We cover some ground, playing the only 18 hole golf course in Malawi, Lilongwe, before finally making our way up the huge Lake Malawi and into Tanzania. 

Zig zagging along and we’re self driving through the spectacular Ngorongoro Crater which morphs seamlessly into the Serengeti National Park where we find lions parked on the edge of the roadside - up a tree - so at Land Rover window height!  The windows were quickly closed under the lazy scrutiny of yellow piercing eyes.

Next up we’re in Rwanda, a very different African country to all the rest, not least because we had to keep our wits about us as their French influence meant we drove on the other side of the road!  Entering Uganda we got to play
12 golf courses as well as plot ourselves around the country seeking those golf courses, getting to know the local friendly people.  With spirits high we enter our 11th and final country (on this trip!), Kenya, with 20 golf courses left to play to make our 100 African golf course challenge.  We were told there are around 40/45 golf courses in Kenya, so we felt quite comfortable we’d reach our goal.  Plus we really wanted to explore Kenya as a country.  In fact, with the exception of South Africa, Kenya was the one country where we played most golf, and we loved each and every course, from the tea plantations to the ocean to the mountains.  We explored Kenya from West to East, camping in game parks, staying in lodges or hotels on the way.

And now in Kenya.  Starting at Kitale we methodically plod along through Nairobi, veering off to visit other special places such as Mount Kenya, before arriving back at the much loved Indian Ocean, where we played our final four rounds of golf at Diamonds Leisure, Mombasa, Nyali all culminating at Vipingo Ridge. 

Especially meaningful for us on this journey was the Indian Ocean, we’d dipped our toes in it from where it joins the Atlantic all the way up to Kenya in various countries along the way.  Because of this, these final four golf courses in Kenya were special too.

Driving up the long driveway to Vipingo Ridge we arrive and grab a couple of bikes to explore.  Mingling with the bar coded Zebra we tried to ride our bikes on the heavy sandy back roads getting to know the estate, we swam in the cool waters of the pool and took a transfer down to the beach - more than once.  Even squeezing in a couple of yoga sessions on the roof top of our accommodation with the lure of the ocean in sight.  We were taken on a mini safari down to the dam where we met the lovely young giraffe and got to see this wonderful resort that was shaping up to be everything we wanted it to be.

Best known for the giraffe wandering across the golf course during the Magical Kenya Open, we naturally assumed that these wild animals; with a mind of their own, would do the same for us.  But they are wild, and they do have a mind of their own - so we were warned, that might not happen!

Nonetheless, we set off with high expectations of a great course and our final round of golf to complete our 100 African course challenge.

At this stage, I can now let on, I wasn’t best pleased.  Both Steve and myself had been playing a bit of a competition over the previous 99 rounds of golf, and the score was a nervous 50 to Steve, 49 to me. Should I dig deep, or maybe I just played as a I usually do and enjoy every moment, every shot and every rolled in putt.  With greens so good, how could I not enjoy this final round of golf!

The languishing golfers in us was not caused by waiting on slow players in front, or the green to clear, it was caused by the tourist in us being awestruck by the huge Eland wandering near to us, himself enjoying the brief respite from the hot weather in the long shade of the golf cart.  The cool as cucumber Zebra who were a dazzle as they wandered by en-mass in true Midwich Cuckoo fashion, daring us to break stride as we looked on, hopelessly smitten.

We had just finished the 8th when arriving at the 9th tee, in the distance towards the PGA Baobab signage and the clubhouse, we see all three giraffe.

On the Fairway!

Excitement and giddiness meant a great drive from us both as we neared these lovely majestic animals who lolloped along with graceful ease.  We met the rangers who look after the giraffe, and as we chatted, the male giraffe came up to the golf cart and popped his head inside.  I can tell you, his long lashes are not from Loreal, they are real.  His huge black eyes look deep enough to drown in but the overriding impression was, wow, his head is so big, as he took up most of the spare space in the golf cart.  We have seen many giraffe, from all the species of giraffe on the road, and we’ve been close - but never that close!  

Tickled pink and realising we still had nine holes to play, we reluctantly said good bye and set about completing our challenge.

Picture the scene, large Baobabs, African Flame Trees, wild animals and me finally playing some decent golf!  Buoyed up by the animal sightings, the world was a good place to be that day as I romped in with a win.  But only just with 35 stableford points to me and 34 to Stephen!

Who would believe that after 100 rounds of golf in Africa the score was 50 : 50, but who would believe that we were still happily married and after 37 years we have a a whole new respect for each other - that’s what Africa taught us.  

We were left to our own devices as we navigated around 11 African countries, we got lost, we were chased by bull elephants, we have countless punctures and more, but we survived and we thrived.  We were in some sticky situations at times, but a level head and being kind and non-confrontational helped. We were stuck right next to each other day after day bumping along in the Land Rover in oppressive heat and at night, side by side in the roof top tent or at one of our various stop-overs, we were literally in each others pockets and the only time we had crossed words was when we couldn't decide what to have for dinner!

Internally there was no brass band, there was no wahoo with streaming banners, but there was tears as we finished our final round of golf, tears of joy and tears of a sense of achievement.  We’d come so far, physically and mentally.

Later that evening, meeting our hosts, Alex and Finny at the newly renovated poolside bar for a much deserved drink, we were presented with a cake, not just any cake, but a cake to celebrate our 100th round of golf in Africa - and what better place to watch the sunset and draw a close to this overwhelming challenge than at Vipingo Ridge, in beautiful Kenya.

Kenya was the perfect closing country for us.  Nice helpful people, laughing and enjoying our company as much as we did theirs, a country where expectations are high and expectations are met.  A country we loved exploring, as we dotted around playing golf with our unique challenge in mind.

CHEERS TO OUR NEXT ADVENTURE

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The Lure of the Indian Ocean, Mombasa, Kenya (featuring Diamonds Leisure, Mombasa GC and Nyali GC)

The lure of the Indian ocean has such a strong pull that we find ourselves once again beside this beautiful blue expanse of water.

It’s with excitement and a little sadness that we approach our final few rounds of golf to complete our Africa 100 Challenge, but in truth, it will also nice to go home, stop living out of a suitcase, get away from the ever present dust, which seems to get everywhere! and to enjoy some time, not working and not golfing either, to get into our own bed, unpack fully and get some washing done, not when we need it because we’ve run out of clothes!

Leaving Tsvao, we approach Mombassa with this mixture of feelings bubbling up, whilst trying to maintain a steady head navigating our final leg with the pushy drivers and dangerous traffic on the road.

With relief we reach Diamonds Leisure Beach & Golf Resort.  A light cool breeze wafts through reception as we embrace this lovely resort with its clear holiday vibe.  It’s a sprawling place with multiple buildings, all resembling each other, all in white offset by the ocean or one of the many pools some with swim up bars.  Our room was stark, clean and white with a dash of aqua blue.  The contrast between bush living and beach-side resort becoming more and more apparent.  

Diamonds is pleasing to the eye.  As the temperatures soured outside, being oceanside has its advantages; a warm and welcome breeze.  With easy access for beach walks take you through coconut trees, a little cave and down a few steps and you’re there, ready to paddle in the Indian ocean.

Making cocktails; vibrant, potent, tasty and much needed after the drive gave us an opportunity to not only try different cocktails, some we’d heard of, but never ordered before now, and some we can add to our ‘we’ll order that again’ growing list.  It also gave us a wonderful opportunity to practice some photography, with the cocktails colours popping and pretty much making the picture themselves - we just had to push the button!

Their golf course across the road from the entrance of Diamonds Leisure.  The clubhouse has been going through some repairs and upgrades, and wasn’t quite set up when we played, but we have since heard it is now in full swing; roof repairs done, golf carts bought and they are ready to receive more golfers.  

This is our 97th golf course in Africa.

On the day we played, it was so so hot, even walking was difficult in the heat, let alone swinging a golf cub!  A slight damp start underfoot gave way to an oppressive heat as the Kenyan sunshine took hold.  Marvelling at the huge tree in the bunker on hole 2 makes you wonder; isn’t golf hard enough!?  Black sleeved monkeys sat watching us as we played, keeping one eye on the golf bag and one eye on us, we knew what they were after!  Multiple trees, some tropical, some in the way and some to just marvel at.  Bunkering was consistent with bright sand which stands out against the blue sky and green grass.  A decent roll on the green, albeit slightly slower than some we’d played with some holding more interest by way of humps and bumps than others, some had sand on them left over from top dressing, whilst others rolled so well it was as easy to putt off the greens as on them.  The incredible Baobab trees sit solid in amongst the bunkers, and rather than move the bunker, or heaven forbid, chop the hundreds of years old trees down, they built the bunkers around the tree, to create a spectacular contrasting scene.  The beauty of this course shines through, the water vistas are special and fit in well with the nature and surroundings and we know that now we have been told it is back to its full potential, it is going to be one to reckon with as a must play in Mombasa.

Back in our cool room and a dip in the pool, which being just outside our window made it an easy decision to take a dip.  Instead of calling us into the cooling pool waters, it only need whisper, and we’d still be there!  The swim up bar was dominated by smokers, which was a bit annoying as we couldn’t get close to order a drink without secondary smoke clogging our lungs. 

Choosing to dine in the resort offers many choices.  Watching home made pizzas being prepared, cooked and served, was efficient and mesmerising as the skilful chef takes pride in each masterpiece he created - no just slapping on a dollop of  tomato and a sprinkling of cheese on the pizza’s here, Diamond pizzas are created with love using rosemary twigs to spread the base with oil before adding the various fresh toppings.

We dined in the main buffet restaurant for breakfast and sat in the same restaurant, one evening for dinner, where tables and chairs were pulled onto the grass and the garden lit with a myriad of colourful lights in and around the small ‘stage’ which consisted of a few planks of wood upon the ground.

Live entertainment was by way of local dance schools, young adults bounced around with so much energy it was contagious, sharing their traditional, if maybe slightly modified to modernised tribal dances.  Colours whooshing as a blur in front of our eyes couple with the sound of pounding feet and their sing song voices, was melodic and surprisingly peaceful to watch.

Another night was like one big hotel guests party with various BBQ stations dotted around; a tandoor for the most delicious bread and a whole section of salads and veg were a treat, not to mentioned the variety of meats cooked in many different ways, on and off the BBQ.

We took a boat ride to see the dolphins, past islands made solely of trees which have adapted to create little island themselves, crevices and holes dissecting their main trunk, it isn’t until you’re closer that you realise, they are in fact tree clad mini-islands.  The make-shift crew band starts up as we return back to shore having seen the dolphins and done some skin diving around a beautiful white sandy beach island with a coral surround.  Back on land, and we are treated to a local meal, of a local vegetable curry and Indian style bread.  Simple and delicious.

The nine hole Mombassa golf club is reachable from Diamond Leisure, so we made our way over to be greeted by the most hospitable members.  A happy bunch who wanted us to share their celebrations, although we were uninvited and had just turned up.  Sadly we had to go out and play some golf.  On the first tee, a slight elevation, we marvelled at the huge ocean liners almost within reach - OK not that close, but very close to the shoreline and the Mombassa golf club, which is our 98th course in Africa.  Tall city scape buildings one way, the ocean liners and the ocean the other, and the golf course laid out in front of us.  Over ravines to parts of the fairway you couldn’t see with the waves lapping to our right.  Go close to the edge and you were either rewarded with a nice little beach or sadly washed up rubbish.  A shrine made of a rocky outcrop was also visible.  Across the road to play a few more holes, and the heat hit you like an electric blanket which had just been turned on!  Airless and hot, we didn’t hang around although the monkeys did make mocking sounds as we tried to hurry up and give ourselves some reprieve from the heat.  You know you’re glowing when the caddies ask ‘are you a little warm?  I was obviously red faced and ready to get to the ocean side for the promised breeze - which amazingly didn’t turn up that day!

Beside a new dam being built, we assume for watering the course, and we’re making our way back up the 9th towards the clubhouse.  You can play this as an 18 hole course, but nine was enough for us that day!

Our final night at Diamonds Leisure and the next morning we’re on our way to play our 99th golf course in Africa, and we have heard its a good one from members and visitors alike.

Nyali Golf & Country Club is a slice of golfing heaven.  So green and clearly cherished by the members, we were welcomed with open arms.  With no time to practice, the first hole was a 490 yard par 5.  Nothing like being thrown into the deep end and suddenly the first green is in front of us.  No idea how it played or how it rolled, we found just hitting it worked quite well!  A nice parkland course, not far off the main road but still sporting the odd wild deer who made an appearance, just for us!  It's hard to believe that this golfing idyl is here, in all its glory.  Nice big trees made regular appearance, some narrowing the tee shot, some tall and statuesque others just randomly in the way, all beautiful.  The big greens rolled well as the birds chirped happily in the abundance of trees.  Bunkers weren’t deep, but some were narrow, other huge sandy openings in the ground.  There was little water, just the odd splash of pretty pond views on the 14th, with the low hanging trees were adding another challenge. Having a golf cart helped us in the heat of the days we took in the golf course and all its beauty as monkeys once again decided to use the golf course as their playground.  The par 3 finish was a nice one to complete this lovely course and with a cold coke and samosas calling from the bar, we finished the course with a flourish and dashed to the clubhouse, promising ourselves we’d be back

Back on the road after golf and we are off to our final destination, for golf anyway, and I will let you into a secret, its a great one to finish.

We’ve played 99 golf courses in Africa, so it's time to give you an update on the score which sits at 50 to Steve, 49 to me.  It’s going to be a tough final game for me, I think!

                                   

Tsavo East or West, where is best

Tsavo National Park is the largest national park in Kenya and one of the biggest in the world.  It is split into East and West, with the Nairobi Mombassa Road being the pulsing vein through the park alongside the railway track.  Tsavo East is nine times the size of the Maasai Mara National reserve.

We stayed just a couple of nights in Tsavo East, in a nice hotel overlooking a watering hole, where elephants and other animals gathered during the day, and at night.

We also took a guided game drive through the East side.  It took a while to spot any wild animals but we did meet up with a baby elephant, just a few days old, who was fast asleep.  Nudged, gently kicked and pretty much strung up by its ears, the older sister was not happy with us being there, although we were not too close.  She tried and eventually succeeded to get the baby to move.  Groggy from a deep sleep, the little one woke up stumbling around wondering what was going, when he found Mum, and after a little feed this small family wandered off to blended seamlessly into the wild.  Watching the whole family dynamics was heart rendering with big sis being instrumental in the baby’s welfare and it was clear she embraced her duties.

Tsavo East terrain is different, more of an open savanna which normally offers great sightings of vast herds of, often to big and mighty majestic elephant.

Taking pot luck as you do on any game drive, sadly this one didn’t yield much but we did get to see, as in true Disney style ‘Pride Rock’ - Ok, thats what I called it!.  A big flat topped rock with crevices, the sight was as if out of a Disney movie!  We were told there was lion living in, on and near the rock - sadly we didn’t see anything.

However upon leaving Tsavo East the next day, we swung by that rock again, and behold a lovely sight of the cubs darting about when hearing the land rover engine roar.  To be honest the land rover is not a vehicle of stealth, so they probably heard it as we left the camp miles away!  A lioness was atop the rock basking in the sunshine, raising a lazy eye brow as the land rover neared, but not really scared or sensing any danger knowing the cubs were safe as they darted for the shady cover.  

Tsavo West  terrain on the other hand is altogether more dramatic with its volcanic denser landscape and arguably more appealing to the eye. Tsavo West is the smaller of the two Tsavo’s but that doesn’t mean you get fewer wild animals.  In fact, we had some great sightings of Leopard and walking down by the stunning Mzima Springs, a series of natural pools and home to many hippo and crocodile was both exciting and scary in equal measures!

Staying at the lovely Severin Safari Park we rested in good quality safari tents.  Various tents were dotted around a central no-go area with what looking like lava rock paths leading you around the outside of the tents.  The large veranda at the back of each tent is a great space to sit and while the time away as the sun sets.

Food was served in a separate building a short walk away.   Overlooking a waterhole.   There was also a telescope set up to view Mount Kilimanjaro, which bring us full circle to Tanzania and our time there!

When the maintenance man tended to a faulty light bulb, the scene soon turned to chaos as he ran as fast as his two legs would carry him back to the safety of the main reception area.  A shot time afterwards, we could see why the rapid movement - a large bull elephant decided he wanted that space - to scratch himself on the tree the faulty light was in.  Bull elephant 1, little man on two legs 0 - entertainment value 10

Having breakfast and dinner in the main open sided restaurant bought many antics of wildlife - antics to us, acting naturally to them.  The cheeky hornbills, whilst giving you the side-eye would, without remorse, take food off your plate and toss it to the back of their throats, whilst keeping the other eye firmly fixed on its next chancy meal; which could be from your plate, or someone else’s.

It was towards the end of the wet season, so the industrious dung beetle were out in force.

Proudly pushing their ball of poo, on the look out for a mate.  The male dung beetle navigates and displays his ball of poo saying “I’ve built you a nice house from elephant poo, how about it!” The female  has the upper hand, if she is not so keen on that rolling house of elephant poo, she rejects it.  The poo ball is for laying eggs, so she needs to like it!

In collaboration, they are often seen rolling their home together, the male pulling and the female pushing.  Once the eggs are laid in the poo ball, the ball is then buried and the male stands guard.

Not the only beneficial animal or insect from the elephant poo and its ineffective digestive system, monkeys and baboons are seen munching this, in their eyes, delicacy.  Although at first glance they seem to be eating the elephant poo, they are not, they are actually sifting through it for the nutritious seeds, insects and grubs.  The natural eco system in the wilds of Africa.  

An eco system that works just fine - without mans intervention!

A raised swimming pool area at Severin Safari Lodge is met with far reaching views as you relax and enjoy Tsavo West from the comfort of you sun loungers.  Barely used, it was a great place to do a spot of yoga; in the open, listening to the lapping of the pool waters and the stillness of the wild beyond.  There is even a massage room with a sheer drawn curtain next to the pool again with views towards the game park.  A massage in the wild is a new experience and one I’d recommend.

The food was a good healthy feed, not via a buffet - maybe the people at Severin Safari Camp know of the hornbills patrolling!  Table service with a choice from a set menu for the day, which was efficient and tasty.  

    

Its important to listen when in the bush, sitting quietly was the best thing to do as you hear wild dog in the distance - we hope far distance!.  That night I was awoken by something at 3am, a quick glance outside the tent mesh window yield nothing through my sleepy eyes, so I went back to sleep, wondering if I’d missed something really exciting, something my human eyes hadn’t focussed on in the dim light.

It’s actually amazing how well you sleep when you’re in the bush, even though its only a bit of rip-stop fabric separating you and the wild animals, the comfort, bush noises a full and satisfied belly and of course a dose of tiredness made it easy to relax.

It really is a wonderful relaxing sleep in the semi-open at Severin Safari Camp.

Watch the video below to see more.

Next stop - we take on our final challenge of the Mombassa Road towards the pull of the azure Indian Ocean, so stay tuned