Fairmont Mount Kenya - what to do at a luxury resort

We need a break - what! you need a break when your doing a trip of a lifetime, self driving around Africa, enjoying yourself and playing some golf?  Is that your break?

Well yes, but honestly, it can be quite exhausting some times!

Fairmont Mount Kenya came on our radar a while back as the place to stay for some R&R, and guess what, it has a golf course too, a double whammy we were delighted with.

We drive North from Nairobi for a couple of hours and upon arrival were immediately impressed.  Easy to find, and easy to navigate roads - of course not always the best of condition roads, but bumping along in Andi the Landy was our normal everyday life now. Who cares if the pot hole is just a few inches deep or a foot deep - vigilance on the roads is a must, especially with the Kenyan drivers!

Andi is a military grade Land Rover; stronger chassis, cubby holes/cupboards, that kind thing, and as we were heading into military land, Andi settled.  He was home looking at his Land Rover buddies pass by, bringing back memories of his time in the middle east and reminding us of the multiple dunes worth of sand we had to clean out of every orifice when we bought him home - that a a number of spent shells!  Life is now an easy trundle for Andi, well maybe not so easy on the African roads, but certainly a trundle!

The welcome starts at the gates of Fairmont Mount Kenya as they open to embrace us, and Andi into their fold.  Hidden behind these gates is a beautifully manicured garden, with a sweeping drive up to the main building where we were greeted with smiles and waves from the staff.  Our arrival was expected, and that is so refreshing in itself.  Once Andi was through those gates, he took a rest, but first we had to take some photos of him with the staff, who were so delightfully in awe of our home on wheels.

Smooth and easy and we’re checked in and led to our villa.  An enormous villa for two it has the flexibility to open up another bedroom with the central common area being shared with - wait for it - a huge open fire.  A delightful meeting place for the family or a couple of friends.

We’re in Africa, the only fires we’ve had so far are those which you toast marshmallows on.  As the day drew to an end, the temperature did drop at night - probably that and the fresh mountain air made that fire so welcome as we returned from a delicious dinner to its flickering flames and sat and watched them licking the side and pumping out welcome heat into the room.  No words were needed as the orange flames lit up our faces before we turned in for our bed.

Awake and refreshed, we bounce up - well one of us does, the other isn’t so much of a morning person - I’ll let you guess who is who, but as I waited for Steve to eventually rise from his slumber - oh did I give the game away!

The main restaurant served an amazing array of buffet options, plus one of the nicest views too.   Bright colours collide with each other as each food pile was welcomed by this wide eyed couple.  A table with a view, under a covered verandah, we enjoyed the myriad of tastes, until we could eat no more!

The extinct volcano, that forms Mount Kenya, is in the background, the maze and pool settle into the beautifully manicure gardens in the foreground, there was a lot to look at as we languished over breakfast.

Mount Kenya is the second largest mountain in Africa, after Kilimanjaro.  Fairmont Mount Kenya sits directly on the equator, and weirdly there is a balance about everything, a balance that encourages that deep breathing feeling of being happy to be alive.

Hyena

We venture, well amble into the on-site sanctuary  We’d been told about the Mountain Bongoes, and their plight of near extinction just a few years ago, so we wanted to take a look for ourselves.  First encounter through the door is a Hyena, big and just so slightly ugly, but who am I to judge, it pops his head out of the hollowed out log to see whats going on.  A smile that is worthy of a horror movie fixed upon his face.  We move on.. offering the odd backwards glance.

Mountain Bongoes

Without a Swedish furniture shop feel, the clearly designed paths take you around the ‘cages’ and into an open grass area.

Whilst some don’t like caged animals, it probably prudent to mention at this stage that Fairmont Mount Kenya Animal sanctuary is funded via donations and ticket sales.  It caters for all wild animals who have been damaged by traps, hunters or farmers, plus it caters for orphans too.  The two Mountain Bongoes didn’t have a good Mum so have been hand reared.  Given that they are (or were?) endangered I’d say thats a positive result.  There was a three week old giraffe with the cutest huge black eyes whose mother had been attacked and killed by a lion.  He too wore the battle scars but is now safely tucked up at Fairmont Mount Kenya Animal Sanctuary.

3 week old giraffe

The llama seemed out of place until you find out that they were the ‘pack-horses’ of the former owner, William Holden, who used them to climb Mount Kenya.  Now they are resting and enjoying the spoils of this beautiful place, their home.

There is a blind lioness, you can still see the slightly mottled fur to indicate she is still young.  Almost Disney’esqe as her huge eyes light her beautiful big face - she is still a predator, but she now has a life, a much easier life .  She would not survive in the wild.

The black and white long hair of the Columbus monkey

hangs down.  Beautifully conditioned any hairdresser would be proud of this client as his silky fur sways in the slight breeze.  He sits there languishing in the tree, watching us walk by as we watch him.  We’ve seen these stunning monkeys on the golf course a few times, but never this close, close enough to remark that they should be in shampoo commercial, our usual sightings of the colossus monkey is of a black and white blur as they dart around the course avoiding golfers.

Dining at Fairmont Mount Kenya is varied and delicious, even the welcome plate was skilfully presented our room.  Options include fine dining in the colobus dining room where first class dish comes out time and again.  Real foodies, I think I could be one of them!  will love the variety and tastes presented to you in this special place.  Their main restaurant served a massive selection for breakfast by way of a buffet where freshly baked treats, a variety of fruits and of course the obligatory cooked breakfast vye for you eye as you make the hard choice as to what to have that morning.

We were given the opportunity to dine in the Rose garden.  Big blousy roses compliment the smaller fingers ones, but as the weather had turned, our venue changed to the Lake House.  Any special occasion warrants this location, as we were waited on with wonderful dish after wonderful tasty dish set within the confines of the covered boat houseunder ambient lighting, the night dwindled away without notice. 

Its clear that each chef takes pride in what is presented, it looks delicious and is delicious, which ever restaurant you chose.

However, whatever your choice of venue to eat at, don’t forget your pre-dinner drinks in the Ze-bar with its quirky black and white striped chairs.  Cocktails are accompanied by home made chips/crips and olives.

Back in the room and the fireplace had been set as we languished, rubbing our rather full bellies musing the rest of the evening away.  The turn down service also included a hot water bottle in the bed - now thats thoughtful plus a little luxury.

Home made almond croissants and mixed tea (ready made Kenyan tea with milk) I’m in heaven once again as we enjoy the full array of delicacies at the breakfast buffet.  Geared up and ready to play our 93rd round of golf in Africa.

The on-site nine hole par three course is one of the many reasons you’d visit Fairmont Mount Kenya.  Bearing in mind we are playing in a natural environment, it isn’t unusual to see hoof prints from various antelope on the green, so please don’t expect perfectly manicured greens.  Its not terrible, its not shabby, but its not overly manicured either.  This golf course is an experience and a delightful one at that.  Originally a 6 hole course, it was changed to nine par 3’s in the 70’s, the greens are fairly small targets, and the little hillocks add some interests in terrain movement.  The huge established trees make this course a challenge, some narrowing the fairway so much, you need to either fly over them or scoot under them - golfers choice.

Hole 7 is unique in so far as you tee off in the Southern Hemisphere and putt out in the Northern

Hemisphere.  We loved the flag poles with their bobble cages/springs on the button to stop the baboons swinging the flag sticks back and forth and damaging the holes.  Under the watchful eye of Mount Kenya, this fun golf course is there to please you as well as to test you.

This place really does have it all as we welcome the Riuki Spa. A separate building nestled within the woods welcomes you as trickling water tests the bladder and heady scents of perfumed rooms waft as you wait for your spa specialist.  A family pummel might not sound the best, but as both Steve and myself were manipulated and stretched after our golf, it felt so good.  Steve is a bit of a spa virgin, so his rookie error was asking for a firm massage - I’m not sure he liked that or regretted it, but the photo of him afterwards tell the story!

Me, I loved it all, especially the sauna afterwards.

A damp day emerged into a sunny one as we left the spa, but the ground underfoot was soft so the safari walk was cancelled, which was a real shame as we’ve done that a few times already on our African adventure, and wanted to see what Mount Kenya could offer.

Nearing an end to our stay, just before leaving we were invited to plant a tree.  Fairmont Mount Kenya have a program to plant indigenous trees and allow guests participation - not the usual thing you’d do on holiday, but in for a penny.…  Now as our surname would suggest, we love trees, so absolutely, we’re in!

As a keen amateur gardener, I was nonetheless pleased to see the holes had already been dug for us, we simply had to pop in a ‘stick’ and back-fill it.  Not as easy as it sounds after the heavy rain, but it was all done with gusto and great humour.  A humbling and rewarding activity, and as we planted multiple trees, which we aptly named Forrest forest!

On first name terms the staff who were always pleased to see us, always greeted us with a smile, and they loved Andi the Landy - well who wouldn’t!

Their sense of service was above and beyond most places we’d stayed in Africa, maybe working in such a beautiful setting lifts their hearts as much as it does the guests who stay there.

Thank you Fairmont Mount Kenya for a delightful stay, a much needed rest and to be able to add you in our Africa 100 challenge.

Sarah & Steve

A selection of must see photos at Fairmont Mount Kenya

Our balcony visitor

Fairmont Mount Kenya

A short video to share the delights of this wonderful place in Kenya

Whether its wild animals, golf, hiking Mount Kenya or enjoying some of the most amazing gastronomy set within stunning grounds, this is the place for you.

Full write up coming soon

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Thanks for watching

Sarah & Steve

Nairobi Golf Part 2 - featuring Vet Lab, Muthaiga and Limuru Golf plus luxury stay at Deerpark Collection

 

Enjoy our second short video about golf in Nairobi plus where to stay in a family run luxury guest house.

Don't forget to watch, enjoy and give us the thumbs up, you could even subscribe if you'd like to see alternative, fun places to play golf, where to stay and exciting things to do when visiting

Thanks Sarah & Steve

Golf In Nairobi featuring Royal Nairobi, Karen CC and Railways You Tube video

 

We're sharing 3 of the 7 golf courses we played in Nairobi being Royal Nairobi, Karen Country Club and Railway in this short video.  We also stayed at The Residences at Karen CC - a great place to base yourself in Nairobi.

Enjoy and please consider commenting or subscribing to our You Tube channel.

Thanks Sarah & Steve

West is best - or is it? - Join us as we explore West Kenya

Crossing over into country 11 of our African golf safari, we enter Kenya - our final country with 20 golf courses left to play to complete our challenge.

Immediately on entering Kenya, we're looking at a bribe, wondering if this is the thing in Kenya or whether it’s a one off?  We were asked to unload all of our bags from the Land Rover, and as we started to do this, the fixer told us we could pay the customs official the equivalent to £6 and we could move on - of course we did this, not because we have something to hide, but because we wanted to get back on the road.

About 5 minutes down the road and we are stopped again.  This time the policeman wanted a beer - we don’t have beers, and as a female officer started to approach, the original police officer moved away - without a beer and we were allowed to carry on with our journey.

Of course we’re disappointed with our first impressions of Kenya.  Our job is to encourage others by sharing good things about our journey, but for the sake of transparence we’re not going to sugar coat it either!

At this stage, I’ve got to say, not everyone is like this in Kenya, but let our story unravel, and you can judge this statement for yourselves and maybe, on reflection, first impressions, were a bit harsh?  We’ll see.

Wondering what on earth we’d let ourselves in for in Kenya, our first campsite was near our first golf course, Kitale.  Pretty grotty facilities were offered and refused, so we decided to sort ourselves out, boiling our own water after seeing other peoples dirty dishes hog the drainers.  A perfect time to be resourceful.

KITALE GC

81. Kitale Golf Club - and the people could not have been nicer, more welcoming or friendly.  Playing this parkland course, we got to see the black and white colobus monkeys almost flying through the air as they bounce from tree to tree, rattling the branches above us as we played up and down the hills.  Wide ditches, or donga’s were fairly common but without water, they were playable from their base.  It immediately struck us how good the condition was, having played some barely identifiable as golf courses on our African journey, this was refreshing and we hoped was the start of a trend for golf in Kenya.

A really nice established tree lined course with a club more like a country club as we listened to children and adults playing in the pool next to the clubhouse.  There’s a real nice family feel about this place.

We discover a lot of places by asking around or seeking the very suspect reviews from IOverlander.  We followed one such review to a place for camping - the only problem was, it was for static campers and really it was a conference centre and not really equipped for roof top camping.  As the light faded, and with swift negotiating, and were allowed to stay in front of the conference centre, (which wasn’t being used) and use their toilet facilities - infinitely better than the ones offered for campers but we were only here for one night, so no problem really.  The $10 pppn was a bit steep though, especially as it wasn’t really a camp site with decent facilities, we only stayed one night.

One of our priority jobs when we enter a new country is to buy a local sim card, plus we also need insurance for the car, so we spend some time the next day driving around trying to get this sorted out.  Whilst a necessity for travellers like us, its also a great opportunity to get to know the local area and see whats there.

Eldoret Golf Club was next on our list, but as they were not interested, they wouldn’t even let us past the car park let alone sit down at the back of the clubhouse to enjoy the golf views.  No we were kept waiting for hours - in the car park, then they said no.  We did wonder how one golf club can be so friendly and welcoming and the next, rude and uninviting?  With our tail between our legs and slightly peeved at being kept waiting for so long, we move on.  Then out of the blue, we get a call from Eldoret asking us to come back, but by then it is too late, besides after the treatment and lack of hospitality they extended to us, we had little inclination to go back!

Tea plantations all around the vibrancy of the green lifts our spirits and we find a lovely spot to camp at Kapsinokwa Gardens.  A tranquil spot to just relax.  Sadly the road in and out was pretty dire as were their facilities, so we went off grid again and cocooned ourselves in our own little bubble whilst enjoying the beautiful lake views across the well kept park.  Sadly the park was strewn with litter from an event the previous day, little regard was given to this beautiful tranquil spot by the party goers, and the staff seemed reluctant to clear up afterwards too.  It must have been a great party!

KAPSINOKWA GARDENS

Barking toad wake us up fairly early, so we languish in bed a bit longer and just enjoy the sounds of peace and don’t bother rushing away - besides we had that road to contend with, and that didn’t do much for us getting a move on!

NANDI BEARS GC

82. Nandi Bears

Having had a bit of a wasted day, we find ourselves at Nandi Bears Golf.  A little clubhouse is perched on the top of the hill, not fully open but the staff were really pleased to see us and we set off down the first, a downhill hole.  The course did wander up and down the hills some.  Almost square greens and a water feature in the shape of the bears head are some of the more quirky things.  A nice little nine hole course, and once again in decent condition.

Nandi Bear is so called after the local Nandi people with Nandi bear being a mythical creature.

We’re back on the road after golf, heading towards Kericho.  The scenery is spectacular, with the hills colliding into each other as the landscape takes on a ‘Clarice Cliff Summerhouse’ design appeal, giving it a soft attraction as we appreciate our time on the road in Kenya.

Arriving in Kericho, we seek our campsite for the night.  We had done some research but also we’d learnt by now that everyone who does a review has different standards, we reject two places, before we settle on Chai Square, who allow us to camp in their gardens, with tea plantations all around.   We are happy, especially when it starts to rain cats and dogs and the only food we have in needs cooking - their on-site restaurant came in handy as we settle in for ht night. 

After a heavy rainy and hailstorm night, which sounds like a drum being beaten in the tent - the next day we are ready and waiting to play Kericho Golf Course after a hearty home cooked breakfast of egg bead and bacon.

KERICHO GC

83. Kericho Golf club. Its fairly busy on the golf course and we find ourselves behind the lady captain, who kindly let us play through after a couple of holes, just as we cross over the rod to the par 3, 3rd, a nice looking hole, and in many ways the start of our full game at Kericho.  There seems quite a bit of walking from green to the next tee, but as the course is squeezed into a relatively small area, it doesn’t seem cramped.  Moreover, it feels embracing, especially when it gives you a warm welcome hug on the 8th par 5 between huge trees lining he fairway.  So far golf in Kenya has impressed us, we stayed at the on-site accommodation at Kericho, fairly basic, but comfortable and with the clubhouse being a short stroll away, it was handy for dinner and breakfast, especially as we could enjoy the golf course views.

Leaving Kericho, a cow was wandering down the path on the side of the road, and the pedestrians were walking on the road. Quite happy with each others chosen path, they didn’t waiver at the cow taking the safe and prime spot for pedestrians.  Multiple small houses hug the hillside and resemble a monopoly board;  more than a place to live, these places seemed squashed in but forming their own community.

Camping at Kambi Amani and we’re overlooking Lake Nakuru next.  The campsite wasn’t full, so we had the run of the ablutions - or so we thought. Unfortunately whilst the ‘cat was away the mice did play’ adopted mentality of the staff who used the guests facilities for themselves, hanging washing up and leaving personal possessions on display for their next visit to the showers.  I did feel as though I was intruding on their space. but once past all this, the facilities were actually quite good.

NAKURU GC

84. Nakuru Golf Club is just outside the town, so pretty easy to get to.  Playing here with one of the members, we are told stories about the golf course, its history, its membership and its design - invaluable and interesting.  The space between the fairways, the unused space, is given to the local people to ‘farm’, some of the produce is for the clubhouse and some is to sell or swap with other gardeners.  A win for the locals and for the golf club as ‘farmed’ land is less likely to have snakes on it!  A golf course built in 1923 it wasn’t shy to bare its teeth with its cleverly placed bunkering.  Hillocks to wander along, up or down as some holes taunt you with shots through those hillocks to a slightly hidden green.  This 18 hole course has some lovely holes with greens sat in conclaves of large trees, to the view of Lake Nakuru as you finish on a par 5, 18th.

Another night at Kambu Amani camping and we were joined by a young Dutch family who have just started their adventures as we near an end to ours.  It’s nice to be able to share places to stay and places to visit, knowing they too can have the time of their lives on the road in Africa.

We leave fairly early as our next stop is straight to another golf course, Gilgil.

85. We were told Gilgil is a bit different, and it is.  Proudly claiming the only browns instead of greens left in Kenya (we can’t vouch for that, but it was the only browns we played in Kenya) This 9 hole course is one not to let your guard down either.  The browns are like lightening, the first hitting over a busy road, and the nicely thoughtful paths transition you from one hole to the next with nicely planted greenery all round.  Its  a fair walk too as you march up and down fairways, across disused railway tracks and pop back out to another area to play a few more holes, before going to the next section of the golf course.  Back in the club

GILGIL GC

house and you’re hit by the ‘back in the good old days’ decor.  Chintz is the order of the day, the more the merrier, and the more patterns and colours the merrier too.  A collision of colour leading up to an old fashion bar where we couldn’t buy a drink because we didn’t have an account so we couldn’t sign a chit - luckily for us, one of the kind members bought us a drink.  A busy clubhouse with members sat chatting, relaxed as if in someones lounge having eaten a plate laden with a Sunday roast

Gilgil didn’t strike us as a pretty or nice town, the roads are pretty terrible too, but the golf club is definitely worth a visit.

We are not far away when we find our next campsite, Acacia campsite in Sanctuary Park.  Not feeling too well we huddle up in bed early after a bite to eat.  Then it happened, the belly started to tick, then small jump, then huge leaps as it violently objected to something we’d both eaten.  Santuary Park is a game reserve with wild animals wandering freely.  I’m not sure if there are any predatory wild animals, but we did hear hyena and were told of hippo so we were very mindful and respectful as we reluctantly but needing to toddle off to the toilet in the middle of the night, torch in hand being very wary.

That night it rained, a tropical rain only appreciated when you’ve been on the equator, or caught in a tropical storm elsewhere. By the bucket load the water fell from the sky.   By this time we were back in bed huddled up and fell asleep in the cooling air the rain bought.

SANCTUARY PARK

Waking up to birdsong, the rain had passed and our new neighbours were still lying down enjoying the early morning air.  These were two young giraffe lying on the grass not far from our camp.  When they lie down, it’s difficult to really appreciate their size, but you can without a doubt appreciate their colouring, especially against the vibrant green a rain shower brings.  Two fairly young giraffe, chewing and watching us as much as we were watching them.  We did give them some space, but we also did marvel at them fairly close.

By the time we’d had breakfast, the tent was dry enough to be packed away and we move onto the Great Rift Valley Known for it flora and fauna, we were very excited to be meeting up with our friend form Tanzania, Tom and his family.

GREAT RIFT VALLEY GC

86.  Great Rift valley Lodge.  Playing with a member, Roger, we set off with the
ground damp underfoot.  Hole 3 bought us a delightful scene of lilies bobbing along the top of a super clean pond, couple this with the bright yellow acacia trees which bear their sharp teeth if you wander too close, ready to rip the clothing on your back like lions claws, the scene is bright and colourful.  Again a happy remnant of the heavy rain showers.  At 7200 feet you can feel the temperature difference, but by the end of the round, it was sunny once again and the clothes I’d foolishly put on, got gradually peeled off to leave me with just trousers and a golf shirt, battering the mosquitoes who seem to love my skin type!  Holes that narrow, dog legs, good sized greens from long narrow ones to wide big ones, but you can never beat having zebra or impala or any other wild animal sharing the fairways with you as they do at GRV.  Hole 17 was a highlight as a par 5 it isn’t obvious what’s going on when you hit your drive.  You can see a change in terrain ahead of you, but that change is actually a drop off to a different level fairway and the green below.  Such a lovely hole. 18 brings you back to the clubhouse with its vast viewing veranda also being the restaurant and bar area.

GRV WILDLIFE ON THE COURSE

GRV is a really nice place to stay and catch up a little, the chef couldn’t do enough for us and was seen to show off his talent at every opportunity - of course we didn’t object to this and went back to our rooms with full bellies ready for good nights sleep in comfort.

A sad goodbye to Tom and his family but before we leave Tom shares another nugget with us and tells us where to go camping next, Loldia Eburru.

What a spacial place to camp up on the hills overlooking the valley below.  We meet another lady who is camping with her dog.  Turns out she is British but now lives in Kenya and firm friendship is quickly formed.  Unbeknown to us, we later come to rely on the friendship, more than we expected to!

One of the most spectacular scene as we wake up overlooking Lake Nakuru once again, are the thermals on the other side of the valley.  The warm air mixing with the cooler morning air and we are treated to the sight of ‘roman candles’ reaching up far into the clear blue sky.  It's the perfect place to camp and just relax, so we did and ended up staying a couple more nights, it was so good.  And when you find a campsite with decent ablutions and the owners care about their site, it's like checking into a 5 star hotel - for campers. Watching Zebra scan the top of the hill before it drops away to the woodland below is spectacular, especially with that backdrop.

A place to wind down a catch your breath before you enter the all together hectic world of the capital city of Kenya, Nairobi.

Next stop- Nairobi

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