Marvellous Malawi

Wahoo, country number 7 in Africa and we’ve been on the road for a number of months already.  

We’ve visited places we hadn’t even heard about and now we are in country number 7 with Andi the Landy going strong.

The border crossing into Malawi was easy enough from Zambia and the first thing we notice are the locals and their lifestyle industriously going about their daily existence.  Five sacks of their wonderful home-made charcoal stacked on high on the back of a bicycle.  Unsteady and balanced  precariously we were sure we’d see a tumble down of black charcoal!  Thatch roof huts of tabasco drying, hanging line after line of this precious commodity being air dried.  Thatch roof huts of bananas for the passers by to purchase.

A couple of nights camping before moving onto KumbaliLodge in Lilongwe.  Lilongwe is the capital of Malawi and is a bustling place with people all around.  Kumbali Lodge on the outskirts of the capital in a banana plantation.  Thatch huts and gardens to just wind down away from it all, staying here is a perfect combination after the bustling busy city.  Whilst staying at Kumball Lodge we played the only 18 hole golf course in Malawi, Lilongwe.

An inner city parkland course Lilongwe is welcoming and friendly to visitors.  Set along the Lilongwe River the course and is also pretty challenging too.  Although fairly flat, there was some movement up and down through gentle hills.  Tree lined and a pleasure to walk around, even if the golf was rubbish!

Lilongwe Golf 

Lunch after golf, was pretty good, especially for golf club food in Africa!

Leaving the capital we head to Game Haven via Dedza Pottery for one night camping.

Game haven is a series of varying accommodations to suit all.   Our room was in a single story green roof building which didn’t seem out of place.  Adopting more of a colonial feel and blending with the overall game park theme.  You can watch wild animals from the room, or better still, get out to play golf in amongst them.  The nine hole course will satisfy the golfers and the wildlife enthusiasts amongst us.  Zebra or wildebeest wander freely around course in good size herds.  Despite the moving target, they are a good way to mark your line.

Game Haven Golf

  Giraffe, Kudu and a whole host of other animals can make for some interesting lies but the fun playing on such a course far outweighs the condition of the course, which really wasn’t the best.  The best is in the experience.  Back to the lodge that night, our lodge was made up of a big bedroom, a living room and a bathroom.  Slightly dated but comfortable, we were able to relax.  In fact we liked Game Haven so much we asked if we could camp one night too and chose a spot down by the lake to watch the amazing sun set

Camping Game Haven 

over the horizon, gin and tonic in hand.

Back in the Landrover the next day and we find ourselves heading towards Blantyre to play two golf courses, Country Club Limbe and Blantyre Sports Club.

Country Club Limbe has a fairly weak starting hole, but soon picks up after hole 2 and actually is a very pretty course.  Tall African trees dot along without being too oppressive or too much in play.  The course does have some hills and this does give it appeal.  Nice and green, CC Limbe is a nice 9 hole course.

Country Club Limbe 

Blantyre Sports Club is more than golf, but we only played the golf course.  Again another nine hole course which ducks up and down towards the river.  Sadly the river was really smelly, a result of pollution up-stream according to our caddies, but the plastic bags and rubbish clinging to the higher walls of the ravines tell the story that this water course can flow much higher.  Blantyre Sports Club is such a nice course, in decent contain, it is such a shame the river gives it a bad mark.  Take away the river, and arguably take away of lot of trouble for golfers, and also take away the unique design of the water courses cutting through.  By doing this you dont have Blantyre Sports, you have somewhere else, less exciting to play - maybe just clean up the river or stop the pollution up stream to give this course a chance of being amazing.

Blantyre Golf

A quick cross country scoot - who am I kidding, we’re in a Landrover so don’t go quickly anywhere! So a slow cross country

scoot and we are at a very different place, Makokola.  Clean, spacious and incredible, Makokola is located directly on Lake Malawi.  The lake is quite high, but it didn’t really detract from the scene, more akin to a top beach side resort.  But that’s what it was, a white sandy, with blue water - on a lake as opposed to the ocean.  Quality accommodation overlooking the lake and it was really hard to believe we weren’t on the Indian ocean side!

Large modern rooms, great bathrooms and even a gym for the fit ones amongst us, but it’s the view that makes this wonderful place an especially wonderful place.   We were quite a walk from reception, but that suited us as the walk to and from was pretty under the mango trees watching and listening to the huge fruit bats and watching the water features  in the gardens is just pleasurable.

Mlamba Golf 

The nine hole golf course is probably one of the nicest nine hole par 3 courses I’ve ever played.  It isn’t lake side and doesn’t give far reaching views, but it is special as it is set in amongst the Baobab trees.  Called Mlambe after the baobabs this short course plays right up to, past and around the prolific and awe inspiring huge trees.  It also crosses over water and there is barely a driver hole in sight.  A huge eagle owl is perched on the branch above on one tee, watching our every move and almost looking plastic or stuffed, but certainly real as we toyed with the idea it was a decoy, before it  swivelled its head.

Back at this luxury resort and we get on a boat to one of the islands to watch multiple pairs of African fish eagles swoop down to catch the fish.  In the water are the famous blue fish of Lake Malawi, plentiful and only the size of a sardine, they are the life blood of many animals and local people.  People have asked, are there crocodiles in the lake, and I’ll be honest, I don’t know!  The locals swim happily in it, the cows graze alongside it and it just doesn’t look like a crocodile infested lake, its far too pretty with its crystal clear waters watching fish dart here and there being unable to hide in the clear waters.

The pool at Makokola was a big hit with us too - warm and perfect as the day fades away, you can watch the sun set across the lake and still have to pinch yourselves in this tropical idyl.

Breakfasts at Makokola is by way of a buffet, and never being ones to say no, we certainly enjoyed well cooked and tasty food.  A perfect start to another day on the road, as we set off again northwards.  Travelling along the lake towards Tanzania, we came across a number of fantastic campsites, OK the facilities were seriously suspect at some, but the scene is one of peaceful tranquility with the lake forever on our right.

Our final goal course in Malawi is at Kasasa.  A sugar plantation owned golf course with the

Kasasa Golf

club house set high up overlooking the nine holes on offer.  Oh it was so hot on the day we played, couple that with the cut grass, and I struggled playing golf as my ball was once again hidden by the piles of cut grass being collected by the estate workers.  Shame really as the course is ok in its design with trees offering not as much shade as I’d prefer that particular day.  But that aside, it is really a nice course to visit and play some golf.

The added bonus being Ngala Lodge is very close, and this lodge is a lovely family run site.  Lake side and with its own beach our

Ngala Lodge Pool 

room was hidden up some steps  behind trees which slightly obscured view to the water, yet framed it at the same time.  Thatch pitched roofs with a unique bathroom at the rear.  A good and clean mosquito net we didn’t mind having across our bed at night, and we were set for a couple of nights.  Our short time at Ngala was filled with delicious food, fresh, tasty and plentiful.  This oasis in amongst the trees and has more of a rustic feel to it, a comfortable rustic feel.

We watched local fishermen come into he beach with their nets of blue fish, tossing them aside for their dinner once free’d from the tangle of the net.

We travel inland slightly and take on some of the scenery as we traverse up and down hills.  With occasional glimpses of the lake and lots of glimpses of Malawian roadside life; lorries fallen of the camber stranded and being manhandled back into place, animals wandering across the roads and high up views for miles.   Camping in the hills was certainly cooler for a couple of nights.

As the Tanzanian border looms, so we drop down to the lake for one final foray at a campsite where we ended up staying two nights, despite their being no hot water for showers.  We were just happy listening to the waves crash on the lakeside beach just 20 meters way.  The water level was high all along the lake, and watching the cows being herded through water they could only swim was an interesting way to herd them as the local wave on their way past.

The simple life suited us as we spent a long time watching the huge ants carry off full crisps in an efficient way working as one team.  Mesmerising and teamwork at its best.

All too quickly we had to leave Malawi to tackle another new country, Tanzania.

Watch our Malawi video here

Overlanding Zambia - a country waiting to be discovered

Rarely do we have a moment of reflection, where each memory that is conjured up is a positive one. Zambia is one of those countries that was seriously special. We did play 12 golf courses, which meant we could explore the country as we drove around from one course to the next. 

So what is on offer for two exploring adventurous golfers in their prime? Arriving into Katima Mulilo Zambia didn’t shout, come and stay here. Just the usual dirt road, clogged up with heavy lorries ether side and people milling about. In fact our first foray in Zambia was to a campsite just on the other side - which was closed and offered African style room - the campsite was non-existent with the owners suggesting we park in the carpark, by the main road, and use the guards toilet - no thanks. We decided to head due North to Ngonye Sioma Falls. Being lone campers was really nice. A riverside site with round straw huts for the facilities, which were fairly basic, no lights but reasonably clean - sometimes, lack of light works in your favour! A perfect base for some hiking to Ngonye Sioma Falls. The second biggest drop on the Zambezi River. A horseshoe waterfall with lots of jets of water forging their own way with the water crashing down deafeningly. We heard the waterfalls before we saw them, and because of the dry season we did have to hike into what would normally be underwater. Across sand and rock banks. But worth the hike on the beautiful Zambezi River. The

Zambezi was fast becoming the pulsing vein in our trip.  Doubling back to get back on track to Livingstone, and expecting it to be very similar to Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwe side, it really wasn't. It is less touristy, and probably a little more basic as a result, but then you could argue it is more authentic too?

We camped for a few nights in Livingstone Waterfront Lodge, a great spot for exploring. Large sharing facilities with the static tents and the roving campers like ourselves. Clean and decent, we stayed for a few nights, camping and in one of their lodges.    Riverside dining was wonderful as we watched the sunset each evening and rose to a good breakfast too.

You can arrange excursions through Livingstone Waterfront Lodge, so we hopped onto a game drive in Mosi-O-Tunya - with the guide proudly announcing it as the second smallest game park in Zambia. Small in size didn’t mean fewer sightings.  Watching and enjoying a selection of wild animals before being asked, by the guide, did we wanted to go rhino walking? Sharing the vehicle with some lovely Japanese tourists, there was a resounding, yes. A short drive away, we met with rangers who follow the rhino. We get out of the vehicle and get lead to a mud bath where the water once flowed, to watch a family of white Rhino from babies to adults wallowing and snorting as they basked in the cool mud.

Watching these rhino, knowing they were safe under the watchful eye of the rangers was fantastic, even as the Rhino wander by, they weren’t interested in us, just an overwhelming desire to cool down as they ungracefully slump down with a splash. The tiny baby was often hidden from sight, but glimpses of this huge pachyderm, did melt the heart.  

We can’t be in Livingstone and not re-visit Victoria Falls. We have already seen the falls from the Zimbabwe side, so did think, well its just water gushing down, but when we arrived, again we were blown away by their splendour, and we were quite taken aback by the actual sighting itself even onto Zambia side.   We were told it was better on Zimbabwe side, but it wasn’t - and much cheaper entry fee on the Zambia side too.  We did get soaked through by the spray, but it was a hot day the water spray was actually quite welcome. Also arranged through Livingstone Waterfront Lodge, we embark onto a speed boat to head up river to the elephant cafe. Having white water rafted on this very same River (and nearly died!), the rapids did bring back some hairy memories of being tossed out onto the fast flowing crocodile infected water. Thankfully the skipper was well versed on this river and took us slalom style left and right to avoid any nasty bits; rapids, hippo or crocodile.  

Crossing the rapids on a speed boat was a
much more enjoyable than being thrown out of the boat on them! Arriving at the Elephant cafe, there were five elephant lined up patiently awaiting their dinner, well probably a snack looking at the small bags of food and the large animals!   Hand feeding nuts - not to dissimilar to the ones a farmer might use for livestock.   Mostly we fed from the front of the line with the cheeky

elephant tugging at the shoulder bags full of nuts - small handful's were an insult, so we ended up tipping the bag into their cavernous triangle mouths as they lifted their trunks out of the way and open up ready to be fed.  Having never fed an elephant before, this was so exciting for both of us, and it was sad when we’d emptied all the nuts into the elephants as that meant, all too quickly it was the end. But we did get to feed each one of those gentle grey giants.

But the evening was far from over as we were guided into a covered lodge overlooking the

Zambezi River for a gastronomical treat. Course after course of locally sourced food was bought to us, pretty and delicious as each course wowed us and left us feeling satisfied. 

Back to Livingstone Waterfront Lodge for one final night then a sad goodbye to the wonderful staff here as we head North to Lusaka. Stopping at a few golf courses on route, as already written about, we arrive into Lusaka at an AirBnb we’d booked on-line. We didn’t stay long as it was small, and very uncomfortable so we made our way to Ceila Hotel, with the amazing Bonanza golf course on site. Taken aback at the quality of the hotel and the surrounding area, it was, dare I say it, like being back in Europe or the US, exceptional quality. We’ve discovered a whole new category of hotel, forget 3, 4 or 5 star, we’re talking about African style and European/American style - and just occasionally, we find a decent European/American style - in Africa. 

Ceila is one such place, and we were going to capitalise on our home from home comfort - starting with the dining experience. In truth we tried both restaurants at the hotel, one was a varied buffet of all things nice, the other, Botanics - well let's just say my denim shorts would look out of place! We even took a short stroll to the Brewery, a lively on-site place for a bite to eat too. Being in a hotel complex, you can just wander around at night knowing that you are safe, and as everything was within walking distance, it was nice to get out into the night air too. The rooms were nicely decorated and the showers, well - oh my, they were brilliant - enough hot water gushing out certainly helped us wash some of the rubbish Africa shower thoughts away. Our room overlooked the pool, but it wasn’t right on top of the pool, instead set a little way back - The pool at

Ciela also has a bar with snacks too.  Dining at Botanics, was, as mentioned special. Course after course came out skilfully and artfully presented, then the fresh taste followed . It was great to see the portions weren’t too big, but not designer small either, and as there were so many courses, it worked very well as we cherished each mouthful. Basing ourselves at Ceila we got to play 3 golf courses - with the main one being their own onsite Bonanza course. 

We also got out for dinner for a night at Prime Joint in Lusaka a fun friendly place with amazing food which was clearly popular with the locals too.  great choices and nice and tasty.

 More about this in the Golf in Zambia blog and video, so check that out? On our quest to discover and share more of Zambia, we head up to the Copperbelt. Not real known for tourists to visit, but we had an ulterior motive, to play Trident at Kalumbila. And as a happy coincidence, we get to explore more of the country too. Camping on route, we can really embrace the best of Zambia, and we did. Some camp sites were pretty grotty - even one was a delightful location overlooking the Kafue River, but the facilities were just so awful. Mostly we were the only once camping so we often got to chose our own spot. Calling off at Chimfunshi, we camped in their lone field, but first we got to meet the chimps at the orphanage. In huge paddocks they were sorted out into ‘families’ and seeing the babies was such ahh moment. The chimps are rescues, some from private houses, others from zoo's, often from the DRC,

they are bought to Chimfunshi for a new life. That night we camped in the middle of a swaying grass filed, completely alone, no facilities and just the African sounds for company, right up until sunset - which I’ve got to say, seems to happen quickly in Africa! Then we clamber up into our roof top tent, and sleep. We do tend to go to sleep early when camping, because we also wake up early, and we can really enjoy the most of the bright African skies during daylight. The one thing about camping isn’t necessarily the camp site, its the facilities, and one has to be prepared to get a bit grubby some days knowing there isn’t a hot shower at the end of the day .  Chimfunshi facilities were pretty dire, so we took the wild camping on the chin and just enjoyed the scenery.

A quick night stop at the Royal Solweizi Hotel - pretty much the only hotel around, slightly in need of some TLC, but otherwise quite comfortable. A couple more road fines and we find ourselves back in Lusaka all too quickly - so of course we go back to Ceila Hotel

Leaving Lusaka a second time was tough, we have loved our time at the hotel and the golf is really great, but we need to move on and make our way over to Chipata to play the oldest course in Zambia - read about or watch what happened at this unique course on previous blogs/videos. 

On leaving Chapati, we camped on our way  to

South Luangwa National Park - we’d heard lots of good things about this national park, with it being the most prolific and best for sightings of wild game. So we were keen to see what we could, well, see… Met at the entrance gate by our hosts from Chikunto Luxury Safari Lodge, we gave Andi a rest and journeyed into the park on their much more up to date Land Rover. With Andi looking on as we left him for dust and took on the role of the intrepid adventures that we are, and set off into the throat of the South Luwanga National Park. It wasn’t long until we saw a couple of giraffe wandering across the road. Dark and delicately patterned, they were not at all perturbed by our presence as they lumbered along in their ungainly gait until they just happen to turn off the road so we could get past. Reaching the murky, muddy Luwange River we get on board a little speed boat to get to the lodge. All done in style and all done with ease. At the time of visiting, the park was partially closed, so our only way to the lodge was via the river. But it wasn’t until you were on the river that you realised how many hippo were lounging around in huge rafts. Some break away groups were curious to see what all the noise was about, as they lifted their eyes above water to take in the scene, before sliding back down again probably disgusted at the noise we were making and disturbing them in their watery bed. And I can tell you, of all the animals, the hippo is not one to make angry! The captain was super efficient and avoided the hippo as he zig zag against the flow to reach a muddy bank with make-shift steps cut out. We’d arrived at Chikunto Lodge, well almost - after a short walk we were greeted by a welcome committee who were as happy to see us as we were to see the cold drinks they were offering. And the scene is set.

A central area made in a traditional style with a thatch roof spanning over the expanse to accommodate various seating areas and stretch almost as far down as the pool. The decked pool area was a stark contrast of the blue to the murky brown water of the river which was in full view from the raised decked. By the pool is a large stocked bar. Taking a walk along the elevated boarded walkways, sometimes ducking back down to the sandy ground level, we reach our luxury lodge.   Elephants wander freely around the site, as do other wild animals so we were escorted every time we wanted to leave the confines of our luxury tented lodge to go to the main dining and bar area. 

Chikunto is not a closed site, so waking up the next morning to the sound of branches being crushed and leaves rustling, a quick sneak peak revealed a Mum and baby elephant enjoying the greenery - right outside our lodge. Noisy eaters, without a care in the world - why would you when you’re that size! We sneakily watched from the balcony as they, without any rush, moved away onto greener pastures. A

fairly relaxing day, we weren’t due on a game drive until later, so popped into the shower, with its window overlooking the river. Busily going about my shower, and lo and behold another pair of elephant wander by.  Oblivious to my human presence as they too enjoyed their breakfast of leaves barging their way through anything that was in their way. Bearing in mind the elephant activity was fairly prolific we called for an escort back to the main area for breakfast and were escorted, flanked by two staff. More than one time we were asked to stop and keep still, we didn’t even see the elephant one time! 

Food at Chikunto Lodge is an art. And to appreciate it, you first feast with your eyes. Colourful and tasty food the set menu satisfied us every meal. They even had afternoon drinks and cakes - just in case you needed to eat some more food! Dining at night was a whole new experience with the mosquitoes on the first night enjoying their dining experience too. Learning from this, rubbing anti-mosquito all over did the trick for subsequent nights so we could enjoy our dining experience listening to the sounds of Africa. The game drives around South Luangwa Park were as good as we were promised with our return to the park and the road directly off the river is a lady lion - I say lady lion as she was not to be moved, adopting a regal stance. Basking in the sunshine and quite happy laid on the sandy road. When you come across one female lion, it is likely she isn’t alone, but as masters of disguise, it took us some time to spot her buddies in the long grass, just at the side of the road. It never ceases to amaze us how

large lions actually are, even the females are not to be messed with, despite them looking lazy and lounging around. Pure bred killers which one can certainly admire - from afar. After a long wait she did move over and we could drive around the game park taking in water covered with weeds it was unbelievable that this wasn’t land until you see the tell tale signs of those eyes popping up, sometimes with a pink tinge, the hippo were out taking a look at us as we spied them. Cheeky young monkeys jump around and play in the sunshine, chasing each other and revelling in the joy of their game, which is actually a way of learning their pecking order.  Monitor Lizards skulk into the muddy pools, which you can only see as they slip along

leaving a slight wake behind them.  Zebra, elephant and back to the same two giraffe as we circle back round the same route back passing skittish impala whose beautiful big dark brown eyes are like being mesmerised into a watery blackness. Back on the boat and we’re heading upstream to Chikunto Lodge whereupon we disembark our small speed boat to be told to wait a while as a fully grown elephant wanders past us. The elephant seem to like Chikunto Lodge as much as we do! 

On the late afternoon game drive and we see Wild Dog - Ok we’ve seen them before, and we’ve talked about them being endangered, so to see them again - wow.  In truth we didn’t see the dogs first, we saw a small brown cob (buck) on a ledge below the raised river bank but not quite in the water. Wondering what on earth it was doing there we first thought it had fallen off and started to make our way towards it,

but keeping our distance. Then we spotted the dogs on the top bank who had clearly chased the cob and were encircling it on the upper bank, not allowing it to escape. That poor cob had a choice, go up and let the dogs get him or go in the water and let the crocodile get him - that’s not much of a choice and we spent a long time watching it play out, yet mindful to not interfere with mother nature yet secretly willing the cob to escape. After some time we left the cob and the dogs and disembarked at our chosen bank not too far away.  Quickly jumping into the safari vehicle we make a bee line to the place where the cob was, to watch, very closely the beautiful wild dogs hovering around the ledge. Not knowing if the cob had escaped or had a horrible end, eventually the dogs wandered off.  A short while afterwards, up jumps the cob. Skittish and wary of any dogs before bounding off into the bush. The dogs weren’t in sight now and a little cheer escaped our lips as we watched that one lonesome little cob find his was back to his mates with a story to tell of how he cheated the dogs and the crocodiles. 

Back to the lodge with our own story to tell and a wonderful dinner and lovely nights sleep. Next morning and in no particular rush to leave this luxury resort on the river, we amble along the boardwalk to breakfast and just enjoy the comfort on offer before returning back to our nomadic life on the road as we make our way to Malawi, our seventh African country to visit.

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A Magical Migration

It may surprise you to learn that the migration of wild animals is across a lot of Africa, not just the known tourist ones of Kenya and Tanzania.

Travelling through the Central Kalahari we head East to re-join back into the North West side of Botswana.

A quick overnight at a pretty decent campsite, Symponia, set us up for our re-emergence back into Botswana as we head towards Maun.

On this trip, we have been to Botswana before but only the South and East of the country, we wanted to see the North and West, hence chose Maun as our base.  And we’d heard good things about this fairly touristy area too.

Our accommodation in Maun was at Island Safari lodge, a really nice selection of self contained thatch roof buildings dotted along the dry river bed.  There is  also a couple of pools to relax in and a camping area too - but we were lucky to have
stayed in on of the lodges.

Using Island Safari Lodge as our base, we set off super early, before sunrise, destination Moremi Game Reserve.  Slightly blurry eyed and the cold wind bashing us to pieces in the open air game viewing vehicle, it struck me how much more comfortable the Andi the Landy is!  

As the day dawned and the park grew closer, we were on decent roads, and to our surprise a mother leopard popped up to cross the road right in front of us - with two incredibly cute cubs dashing like blurs behind her.  Never keeping still, and like a flash they were gone.  Mum however hung around for a little while so we could get some good photos.  Im not sure if she just liked posing, or whether she took the opportunity to get a break from her demanding babies, but she gave us plenty of opportunity to see her in fine condition.

Back and forth the little family went, crossing near a dried up stream, with the babies being difficult to capture on a regular camera, but caught in action beautifully on our ‘big camera’  

In truth the big camera is no bigger than any other - the lens however is a Sony 200-600 lens, heavy, unbalanced and perfect for this type of
photography.

We spent some time with the leopard and her cubs before moving on, and to our delight, next up we saw a pack of wild dog.

Looking dishevelled and on some kind of hunt, they were split into pairs as they circumnavigate around their intended target.

Wild Dog are on the endangered list, in fact they are one of the worlds most endangered mammals, so to see a pack in Botswana, is fantastic.  Their breeding program and hopefully their ultimate removal from the endangered list is soon to come.  We have also seen wild dong in the Kruger National park in South Africa.

But this sighting of them going about their hunt, was extra special.

Wild Dog are incredibly efficient hunters, splitting up into pairs or individuals but using all pack instincts to encircle and hunt down their quarry.

They did look a bit mangey,  but you couldn’t get away form how very different each dog was, yet they all carried the striking colours known to their species of red, black, brown, yellow and white.  Beautiful markings, despite the slight tufty appearance.

The wild dog didn’t worry about us being there, and eventually moved away looking less like they were hunting and more like they were off for an early morning constitutional.

We hadn’t even reached Moremi at this stage, so were delighted to have seen these two, very special wild animals without much effort.

Botswana is a great place to discover game, and once in Moremi we saw so many types of other animals that to list would just be boring, but rest assured, there is plenty to see.

A long day animal sight seeing and we head back to Island Safari Lodge, and would you believe, we saw the same Leopard, with a kill.  Under the shade of a bush.  Smelly and obviously nutritionally delicious, if you like day old cape buffalo that is!  The cubs were no where is sight, having hidden them as she was distracted by making the most of her kill.

Devouring a kill can attract other wild animals, so to hide her cubs is perfectly normal, its not as if she was eating for herself and not allowing the cubs to have their share, she is being a Mom and protecting her young!

Back at Island Safari Lodge and a quick dip in the ever so welcome pool before dinner and an early night.

Next day we got to go on the owners caterpillar - now thats not a sentence I ever thought I’d write.  A clever design of multiple carriages he used to track around their own mini-safari and to carry the staff  up to and from the main gate.

Our mini-safari was lovely especially as we got to see a really large owl, the African Eagle Owl, who was a bit camera shy.  You can wander around Island Safari Lodge yourself too, with plenty of walking and for the more energetic amongst us, running tracks.  There is definitely a peace about being there and if you want a good night sleep, in comfortable beds, the works too.

Heading towards Makgadikgadi, we approach SKL camping, who with their knowledge point us to one of the lovely campsites.  There is still a park entry fee to pay, but this fee covers Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pan.

Shortly after entering the game reserve, we stumble upon thousands of Zebra and wildebeest.  Moving ever so slowly out of our way the zebra wide bums looking more like a bar code overload with the off wildebeest popping up in the middle.

It seems zebra and wildebeest are best buddies as they often hang out together, safely in numbers??

Slowing and purposely moving aside, the zebra didn’t seem at all concerned that Andi the Landy was chugging behind gradually being enveloped by a carpet of wild animals.  In biblical proportions, it was a bit like the parting of the sea as they swung back in behind us as we made slow progress along the sandy road.

Well we thought we were on the road, we couldn’t really tell as the animals had turned it up so much, we actually couldn’t see the road.

Finding our campsite, we were the only ones there so had the pick of where to pitch our camp.  But before we set up our camp and settled in for the night, we went on a late afternoon self driven game drive.

Sitting high on a bank in Andi the Landy overlooking what would have normally been a gushing river, we watched the elephant, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, cape buffalo, ostrich and so many other animals tracking from the left heading right.  So many animals in one relatively small area was as sight to behold.  We were later told that the animals had headed north but there was so little water they can back to this now drying up river - and whilst sad in some ways - how lucky are we to see this!

In the sparse water, with hippo wallowing, it seemed to satisfy the animals before they moved on in packs or as individuals, it was quite difficult to tell as there were so many animals per square foot.  Not fighting for water or causing any upset, they lived in harmony, sharing and going about their own business with purpose - what that purpose was, we don’t  know, and why they were all heading the same way, we don’t know either.  But we do know this sighting is one of the best we’ve had of a mass of animals in any one area.

Back at the camp, and an early night after dinner as we planned an early morning game drive to catch the wake-up animals.  Listening to lion at night, some sounded very close indeed, we had a relatively fitful sleep.
 

Next morning we woke to big lion paw prints on the earth by our camp site.  Glad of not needing a wee at night, we quickly packed away as the sun rose once again and set off to the same high ridge.

To our amazement, there just as many animals, but this time heading left.  Mother nature and the all knowing direction of wild animals will continue to amaze us.  We stopped and watched for a while, then drove slowly through Makgadikgadi toward Nxai Pan.

Splitting the large herds of animals as we went, we entered Nxai Pans and decided to take the long drive round to the back of Baines Baobabs.  So named after the famous painter and explorer Baines.  This clump of excessively large trees are known as the sleeping sisters.  Seeing them in the flesh really does show the sheer size, in girth and in height, as they hang onto a little island of green in amongst the vast expanse of the white salt pans.

In the far distance you can see the bush, you can even see elephant looking bemused at our attempt to do circles on the pans, and failing in the lumpy old landrover.

Back to Maun after a long couple of days getting up early, self driving around it was so to be back for a restful night at Island Safari Lodge.

Travelling north, keeping the stunning Okavango Delta on our right.  Catching glimpses of the reflective calm waters we arrive at our next camp site.  Under the shade of trees, the site wasn’t the best, as the mosquitoes took a liking to the ever present cooler and darker areas under the huge tree canopy.

Next day we moved on and found a nice campsite by the water itself.  We even managed to get some hand washing done to replenish our dwindling wardrobe, which in truth is limited to start with!

Camping next to the water brings its own noises as hippo grunt at night and the continuous background of the crickets as the sun sets.  As campers, we often
refer to ourselves as the great unwashed, and with the campsites being along way form the main building, (20 minutes walk away), they thought so too. Mind you the walk through woodland teeming with the pretty spotted bushbuck, who were obviously used to people wandering by was lovey to see.

Not quite tame, but certainly not worried by our ambling presence.

Night time is not a good time to be wandering around with so many hippo about, so we made sure we were back to our campsite before dusk, drinking a gin and tonic - for medicinal purposes of course then clamber into bed to listen to the hippo and other far distant but welcoming night noises as we drift off to sleep, safe and comfforbtale in our Bush Company roof top tent.

After a couple of days we were ready to get going again, so cross back into Namibia, and travelled along the Caprivi Strip.  Something’ve always wanted to do hearing stories of wild life roadside - we didn’t see a thing except one kudu, but it was nice to route ourselves along this iconic, long tarmac strip of land and stay for one night next to Poppa Falls in Shametu Lodge - I even took the opportunity to have a back, neck and shoulder massage so felt pretty nimble by the time we left and headed towards Zambia.

Ready to take on a whole new country.

Steve and Sarah in front of Poppa Falls

Caprivi Strip camping

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