Crossing over into country 11 of our African golf safari, we enter Kenya - our final country with 20 golf courses left to play to complete our challenge.
Immediately on entering Kenya, we're looking at a bribe, wondering if this is the thing in Kenya or whether it’s a one off? We were asked to unload all of our bags from the Land Rover, and as we started to do this, the fixer told us we could pay the customs official the equivalent to £6 and we could move on - of course we did this, not because we have something to hide, but because we wanted to get back on the road.
About 5 minutes down the road and we are stopped again. This time the policeman wanted a beer - we don’t have beers, and as a female officer started to approach, the original police officer moved away - without a beer and we were allowed to carry on with our journey.
Of course we’re disappointed with our first impressions of Kenya. Our job is to encourage others by sharing good things about our journey, but for the sake of transparence we’re not going to sugar coat it either!
At this stage, I’ve got to say, not everyone is like this in Kenya, but let our story unravel, and you can judge this statement for yourselves and maybe, on reflection, first impressions, were a bit harsh? We’ll see.
Wondering what on earth we’d let ourselves in for in Kenya, our first campsite was near our first golf course, Kitale. Pretty grotty facilities were offered and refused, so we decided to sort ourselves out, boiling our own water after seeing other peoples dirty dishes hog the drainers. A perfect time to be resourceful.
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| KITALE GC |
81. Kitale Golf Club - and the people could not have been nicer, more welcoming or friendly. Playing this parkland course, we got to see the black and white colobus monkeys almost flying through the air as they bounce from tree to tree, rattling the branches above us as we played up and down the hills. Wide ditches, or donga’s were fairly common but without water, they were playable from their base. It immediately struck us how good the condition was, having played some barely identifiable as golf courses on our African journey, this was refreshing and we hoped was the start of a trend for golf in Kenya.
A really nice established tree lined course with a club more like a country club as we listened to children and adults playing in the pool next to the clubhouse. There’s a real nice family feel about this place.
We discover a lot of places by asking around or seeking the very suspect reviews from IOverlander. We followed one such review to a place for camping - the only problem was, it was for static campers and really it was a conference centre and not really equipped for roof top camping. As the light faded, and with swift negotiating, and were allowed to stay in front of the conference centre, (which wasn’t being used) and use their toilet facilities - infinitely better than the ones offered for campers but we were only here for one night, so no problem really. The $10 pppn was a bit steep though, especially as it wasn’t really a camp site with decent facilities, we only stayed one night.
One of our priority jobs when we enter a new country is to buy a local sim card, plus we also need insurance for the car, so we spend some time the next day driving around trying to get this sorted out. Whilst a necessity for travellers like us, its also a great opportunity to get to know the local area and see whats there.
Eldoret Golf Club was next on our list, but as they were not interested, they wouldn’t even let us past the car park let alone sit down at the back of the clubhouse to enjoy the golf views. No we were kept waiting for hours - in the car park, then they said no. We did wonder how one golf club can be so friendly and welcoming and the next, rude and uninviting? With our tail between our legs and slightly peeved at being kept waiting for so long, we move on. Then out of the blue, we get a call from Eldoret asking us to come back, but by then it is too late, besides after the treatment and lack of hospitality they extended to us, we had little inclination to go back!
Tea plantations all around the vibrancy of the green lifts our spirits and we find a lovely spot to camp at Kapsinokwa Gardens. A tranquil spot to just relax. Sadly the road in and out was pretty dire as were their facilities, so we went off grid again and cocooned ourselves in our own little bubble whilst enjoying the beautiful lake views across the well kept park. Sadly the park was strewn with litter from an event the previous day, little regard was given to this beautiful tranquil spot by the party goers, and the staff seemed reluctant to clear up afterwards too. It must have been a great party!
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| KAPSINOKWA GARDENS |
Barking toad wake us up fairly early, so we languish in bed a bit longer and just enjoy the sounds of peace and don’t bother rushing away - besides we had that road to contend with, and that didn’t do much for us getting a move on!
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| NANDI BEARS GC |
82. Nandi Bears
Having had a bit of a wasted day, we find ourselves at Nandi Bears Golf. A little clubhouse is perched on the top of the hill, not fully open but the staff were really pleased to see us and we set off down the first, a downhill hole. The course did wander up and down the hills some. Almost square greens and a water feature in the shape of the bears head are some of the more quirky things. A nice little nine hole course, and once again in decent condition.
Nandi Bear is so called after the local Nandi people with Nandi bear being a mythical creature.
We’re back on the road after golf, heading towards Kericho. The scenery is spectacular, with the hills colliding into each other as the landscape takes on a ‘Clarice Cliff Summerhouse’ design appeal, giving it a soft attraction as we appreciate our time on the road in Kenya.
Arriving in Kericho, we seek our campsite for the night. We had done some research but also we’d learnt by now that everyone who does a review has different standards, we reject two places, before we settle on Chai Square, who allow us to camp in their gardens, with tea plantations all around. We are happy, especially when it starts to rain cats and dogs and the only food we have in needs cooking - their on-site restaurant came in handy as we settle in for ht night.
After a heavy rainy and hailstorm night, which sounds like a drum being beaten in the tent - the next day we are ready and waiting to play Kericho Golf Course after a hearty home cooked breakfast of egg bead and bacon.
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| KERICHO GC |
83. Kericho Golf club. Its fairly busy on the golf course and we find ourselves behind the lady captain, who kindly let us play through after a couple of holes, just as we cross over the rod to the par 3, 3rd, a nice looking hole, and in many ways the start of our full game at Kericho. There seems quite a bit of walking from green to the next tee, but as the course is squeezed into a relatively small area, it doesn’t seem cramped. Moreover, it feels embracing, especially when it gives you a warm welcome hug on the 8th par 5 between huge trees lining he fairway. So far golf in Kenya has impressed us, we stayed at the on-site accommodation at Kericho, fairly basic, but comfortable and with the clubhouse being a short stroll away, it was handy for dinner and breakfast, especially as we could enjoy the golf course views.
Leaving Kericho, a cow was wandering down the path on the side of the road, and the pedestrians were walking on the road. Quite happy with each others chosen path, they didn’t waiver at the cow taking the safe and prime spot for pedestrians. Multiple small houses hug the hillside and resemble a monopoly board; more than a place to live, these places seemed squashed in but forming their own community.
Camping at Kambi Amani and we’re overlooking Lake Nakuru next. The campsite wasn’t full, so we had the run of the ablutions - or so we thought. Unfortunately whilst the ‘cat was away the mice did play’ adopted mentality of the staff who used the guests facilities for themselves, hanging washing up and leaving personal possessions on display for their next visit to the showers. I did feel as though I was intruding on their space. but once past all this, the facilities were actually quite good.
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| NAKURU GC |
84. Nakuru Golf Club is just outside the town, so pretty easy to get to. Playing here with one of the members, we are told stories about the golf course, its history, its membership and its design - invaluable and interesting. The space between the fairways, the unused space, is given to the local people to ‘farm’, some of the produce is for the clubhouse and some is to sell or swap with other gardeners. A win for the locals and for the golf club as ‘farmed’ land is less likely to have snakes on it! A golf course built in 1923 it wasn’t shy to bare its teeth with its cleverly placed bunkering. Hillocks to wander along, up or down as some holes taunt you with shots through those hillocks to a slightly hidden green. This 18 hole course has some lovely holes with greens sat in conclaves of large trees, to the view of Lake Nakuru as you finish on a par 5, 18th.
Another night at Kambu Amani camping and we were joined by a young Dutch family who have just started their adventures as we near an end to ours. It’s nice to be able to share places to stay and places to visit, knowing they too can have the time of their lives on the road in Africa.
We leave fairly early as our next stop is straight to another golf course, Gilgil.
85. We were told Gilgil is a bit different, and it is. Proudly claiming the only browns instead of greens left in Kenya (we can’t vouch for that, but it was the only browns we played in Kenya) This 9 hole course is one not to let your guard down either. The browns are like lightening, the first hitting over a busy road, and the nicely thoughtful paths transition you from one hole to the next with nicely planted greenery all round. Its a fair walk too as you march up and down fairways, across disused railway tracks and pop back out to another area to play a few more holes, before going to the next section of the golf course. Back in the club
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| GILGIL GC |
house and you’re hit by the ‘back in the good old days’ decor. Chintz is the order of the day, the more the merrier, and the more patterns and colours the merrier too. A collision of colour leading up to an old fashion bar where we couldn’t buy a drink because we didn’t have an account so we couldn’t sign a chit - luckily for us, one of the kind members bought us a drink. A busy clubhouse with members sat chatting, relaxed as if in someones lounge having eaten a plate laden with a Sunday roast
Gilgil didn’t strike us as a pretty or nice town, the roads are pretty terrible too, but the golf club is definitely worth a visit.
We are not far away when we find our next campsite, Acacia campsite in Sanctuary Park. Not feeling too well we huddle up in bed early after a bite to eat. Then it happened, the belly started to tick, then small jump, then huge leaps as it violently objected to something we’d both eaten. Santuary Park is a game reserve with wild animals wandering freely. I’m not sure if there are any predatory wild animals, but we did hear hyena and were told of hippo so we were very mindful and respectful as we reluctantly but needing to toddle off to the toilet in the middle of the night, torch in hand being very wary.
That night it rained, a tropical rain only appreciated when you’ve been on the equator, or caught in a tropical storm elsewhere. By the bucket load the water fell from the sky. By this time we were back in bed huddled up and fell asleep in the cooling air the rain bought.
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| SANCTUARY PARK |
Waking up to birdsong, the rain had passed and our new neighbours were still lying down enjoying the early morning air. These were two young giraffe lying on the grass not far from our camp. When they lie down, it’s difficult to really appreciate their size, but you can without a doubt appreciate their colouring, especially against the vibrant green a rain shower brings. Two fairly young giraffe, chewing and watching us as much as we were watching them. We did give them some space, but we also did marvel at them fairly close.
By the time we’d had breakfast, the tent was dry enough to be packed away and we move onto the Great Rift Valley Known for it flora and fauna, we were very excited to be meeting up with our friend form Tanzania, Tom and his family.
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| GREAT RIFT VALLEY GC |
ground damp underfoot. Hole 3 bought us a delightful scene of lilies bobbing along the top of a super clean pond, couple this with the bright yellow acacia trees which bear their sharp teeth if you wander too close, ready to rip the clothing on your back like lions claws, the scene is bright and colourful. Again a happy remnant of the heavy rain showers. At 7200 feet you can feel the temperature difference, but by the end of the round, it was sunny once again and the clothes I’d foolishly put on, got gradually peeled off to leave me with just trousers and a golf shirt, battering the mosquitoes who seem to love my skin type! Holes that narrow, dog legs, good sized greens from long narrow ones to wide big ones, but you can never beat having zebra or impala or any other wild animal sharing the fairways with you as they do at GRV. Hole 17 was a highlight as a par 5 it isn’t obvious what’s going on when you hit your drive. You can see a change in terrain ahead of you, but that change is actually a drop off to a different level fairway and the green below. Such a lovely hole. 18 brings you back to the clubhouse with its vast viewing veranda also being the restaurant and bar area.
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| GRV WILDLIFE ON THE COURSE |
GRV is a really nice place to stay and catch up a little, the chef couldn’t do enough for us and was seen to show off his talent at every opportunity - of course we didn’t object to this and went back to our rooms with full bellies ready for good nights sleep in comfort.
A sad goodbye to Tom and his family but before we leave Tom shares another nugget with us and tells us where to go camping next, Loldia Eburru.
What a spacial place to camp up on the hills overlooking the valley below. We meet another lady who is camping with her dog. Turns out she is British but now lives in Kenya and firm friendship is quickly formed. Unbeknown to us, we later come to rely on the friendship, more than we expected to!
One of the most spectacular scene as we wake up overlooking Lake Nakuru once again, are the thermals on the other side of the valley. The warm air mixing with the cooler morning air and we are treated to the sight of ‘roman candles’ reaching up far into the clear blue sky. It's the perfect place to camp and just relax, so we did and ended up staying a couple more nights, it was so good. And when you find a campsite with decent ablutions and the owners care about their site, it's like checking into a 5 star hotel - for campers. Watching Zebra scan the top of the hill before it drops away to the woodland below is spectacular, especially with that backdrop.
A place to wind down a catch your breath before you enter the all together hectic world of the capital city of Kenya, Nairobi.
Next stop- Nairobi
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