Overlanding Zambia - a country waiting to be discovered

Rarely do we have a moment of reflection, where each memory that is conjured up is a positive one. Zambia is one of those countries that was seriously special. We did play 12 golf courses, which meant we could explore the country as we drove around from one course to the next. 

So what is on offer for two exploring adventurous golfers in their prime? Arriving into Katima Mulilo Zambia didn’t shout, come and stay here. Just the usual dirt road, clogged up with heavy lorries ether side and people milling about. In fact our first foray in Zambia was to a campsite just on the other side - which was closed and offered African style room - the campsite was non-existent with the owners suggesting we park in the carpark, by the main road, and use the guards toilet - no thanks. We decided to head due North to Ngonye Sioma Falls. Being lone campers was really nice. A riverside site with round straw huts for the facilities, which were fairly basic, no lights but reasonably clean - sometimes, lack of light works in your favour! A perfect base for some hiking to Ngonye Sioma Falls. The second biggest drop on the Zambezi River. A horseshoe waterfall with lots of jets of water forging their own way with the water crashing down deafeningly. We heard the waterfalls before we saw them, and because of the dry season we did have to hike into what would normally be underwater. Across sand and rock banks. But worth the hike on the beautiful Zambezi River. The

Zambezi was fast becoming the pulsing vein in our trip.  Doubling back to get back on track to Livingstone, and expecting it to be very similar to Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwe side, it really wasn't. It is less touristy, and probably a little more basic as a result, but then you could argue it is more authentic too?

We camped for a few nights in Livingstone Waterfront Lodge, a great spot for exploring. Large sharing facilities with the static tents and the roving campers like ourselves. Clean and decent, we stayed for a few nights, camping and in one of their lodges.    Riverside dining was wonderful as we watched the sunset each evening and rose to a good breakfast too.

You can arrange excursions through Livingstone Waterfront Lodge, so we hopped onto a game drive in Mosi-O-Tunya - with the guide proudly announcing it as the second smallest game park in Zambia. Small in size didn’t mean fewer sightings.  Watching and enjoying a selection of wild animals before being asked, by the guide, did we wanted to go rhino walking? Sharing the vehicle with some lovely Japanese tourists, there was a resounding, yes. A short drive away, we met with rangers who follow the rhino. We get out of the vehicle and get lead to a mud bath where the water once flowed, to watch a family of white Rhino from babies to adults wallowing and snorting as they basked in the cool mud.

Watching these rhino, knowing they were safe under the watchful eye of the rangers was fantastic, even as the Rhino wander by, they weren’t interested in us, just an overwhelming desire to cool down as they ungracefully slump down with a splash. The tiny baby was often hidden from sight, but glimpses of this huge pachyderm, did melt the heart.  

We can’t be in Livingstone and not re-visit Victoria Falls. We have already seen the falls from the Zimbabwe side, so did think, well its just water gushing down, but when we arrived, again we were blown away by their splendour, and we were quite taken aback by the actual sighting itself even onto Zambia side.   We were told it was better on Zimbabwe side, but it wasn’t - and much cheaper entry fee on the Zambia side too.  We did get soaked through by the spray, but it was a hot day the water spray was actually quite welcome. Also arranged through Livingstone Waterfront Lodge, we embark onto a speed boat to head up river to the elephant cafe. Having white water rafted on this very same River (and nearly died!), the rapids did bring back some hairy memories of being tossed out onto the fast flowing crocodile infected water. Thankfully the skipper was well versed on this river and took us slalom style left and right to avoid any nasty bits; rapids, hippo or crocodile.  

Crossing the rapids on a speed boat was a
much more enjoyable than being thrown out of the boat on them! Arriving at the Elephant cafe, there were five elephant lined up patiently awaiting their dinner, well probably a snack looking at the small bags of food and the large animals!   Hand feeding nuts - not to dissimilar to the ones a farmer might use for livestock.   Mostly we fed from the front of the line with the cheeky

elephant tugging at the shoulder bags full of nuts - small handful's were an insult, so we ended up tipping the bag into their cavernous triangle mouths as they lifted their trunks out of the way and open up ready to be fed.  Having never fed an elephant before, this was so exciting for both of us, and it was sad when we’d emptied all the nuts into the elephants as that meant, all too quickly it was the end. But we did get to feed each one of those gentle grey giants.

But the evening was far from over as we were guided into a covered lodge overlooking the

Zambezi River for a gastronomical treat. Course after course of locally sourced food was bought to us, pretty and delicious as each course wowed us and left us feeling satisfied. 

Back to Livingstone Waterfront Lodge for one final night then a sad goodbye to the wonderful staff here as we head North to Lusaka. Stopping at a few golf courses on route, as already written about, we arrive into Lusaka at an AirBnb we’d booked on-line. We didn’t stay long as it was small, and very uncomfortable so we made our way to Ceila Hotel, with the amazing Bonanza golf course on site. Taken aback at the quality of the hotel and the surrounding area, it was, dare I say it, like being back in Europe or the US, exceptional quality. We’ve discovered a whole new category of hotel, forget 3, 4 or 5 star, we’re talking about African style and European/American style - and just occasionally, we find a decent European/American style - in Africa. 

Ceila is one such place, and we were going to capitalise on our home from home comfort - starting with the dining experience. In truth we tried both restaurants at the hotel, one was a varied buffet of all things nice, the other, Botanics - well let's just say my denim shorts would look out of place! We even took a short stroll to the Brewery, a lively on-site place for a bite to eat too. Being in a hotel complex, you can just wander around at night knowing that you are safe, and as everything was within walking distance, it was nice to get out into the night air too. The rooms were nicely decorated and the showers, well - oh my, they were brilliant - enough hot water gushing out certainly helped us wash some of the rubbish Africa shower thoughts away. Our room overlooked the pool, but it wasn’t right on top of the pool, instead set a little way back - The pool at

Ciela also has a bar with snacks too.  Dining at Botanics, was, as mentioned special. Course after course came out skilfully and artfully presented, then the fresh taste followed . It was great to see the portions weren’t too big, but not designer small either, and as there were so many courses, it worked very well as we cherished each mouthful. Basing ourselves at Ceila we got to play 3 golf courses - with the main one being their own onsite Bonanza course. 

We also got out for dinner for a night at Prime Joint in Lusaka a fun friendly place with amazing food which was clearly popular with the locals too.  great choices and nice and tasty.

 More about this in the Golf in Zambia blog and video, so check that out? On our quest to discover and share more of Zambia, we head up to the Copperbelt. Not real known for tourists to visit, but we had an ulterior motive, to play Trident at Kalumbila. And as a happy coincidence, we get to explore more of the country too. Camping on route, we can really embrace the best of Zambia, and we did. Some camp sites were pretty grotty - even one was a delightful location overlooking the Kafue River, but the facilities were just so awful. Mostly we were the only once camping so we often got to chose our own spot. Calling off at Chimfunshi, we camped in their lone field, but first we got to meet the chimps at the orphanage. In huge paddocks they were sorted out into ‘families’ and seeing the babies was such ahh moment. The chimps are rescues, some from private houses, others from zoo's, often from the DRC,

they are bought to Chimfunshi for a new life. That night we camped in the middle of a swaying grass filed, completely alone, no facilities and just the African sounds for company, right up until sunset - which I’ve got to say, seems to happen quickly in Africa! Then we clamber up into our roof top tent, and sleep. We do tend to go to sleep early when camping, because we also wake up early, and we can really enjoy the most of the bright African skies during daylight. The one thing about camping isn’t necessarily the camp site, its the facilities, and one has to be prepared to get a bit grubby some days knowing there isn’t a hot shower at the end of the day .  Chimfunshi facilities were pretty dire, so we took the wild camping on the chin and just enjoyed the scenery.

A quick night stop at the Royal Solweizi Hotel - pretty much the only hotel around, slightly in need of some TLC, but otherwise quite comfortable. A couple more road fines and we find ourselves back in Lusaka all too quickly - so of course we go back to Ceila Hotel

Leaving Lusaka a second time was tough, we have loved our time at the hotel and the golf is really great, but we need to move on and make our way over to Chipata to play the oldest course in Zambia - read about or watch what happened at this unique course on previous blogs/videos. 

On leaving Chapati, we camped on our way  to

South Luangwa National Park - we’d heard lots of good things about this national park, with it being the most prolific and best for sightings of wild game. So we were keen to see what we could, well, see… Met at the entrance gate by our hosts from Chikunto Luxury Safari Lodge, we gave Andi a rest and journeyed into the park on their much more up to date Land Rover. With Andi looking on as we left him for dust and took on the role of the intrepid adventures that we are, and set off into the throat of the South Luwanga National Park. It wasn’t long until we saw a couple of giraffe wandering across the road. Dark and delicately patterned, they were not at all perturbed by our presence as they lumbered along in their ungainly gait until they just happen to turn off the road so we could get past. Reaching the murky, muddy Luwange River we get on board a little speed boat to get to the lodge. All done in style and all done with ease. At the time of visiting, the park was partially closed, so our only way to the lodge was via the river. But it wasn’t until you were on the river that you realised how many hippo were lounging around in huge rafts. Some break away groups were curious to see what all the noise was about, as they lifted their eyes above water to take in the scene, before sliding back down again probably disgusted at the noise we were making and disturbing them in their watery bed. And I can tell you, of all the animals, the hippo is not one to make angry! The captain was super efficient and avoided the hippo as he zig zag against the flow to reach a muddy bank with make-shift steps cut out. We’d arrived at Chikunto Lodge, well almost - after a short walk we were greeted by a welcome committee who were as happy to see us as we were to see the cold drinks they were offering. And the scene is set.

A central area made in a traditional style with a thatch roof spanning over the expanse to accommodate various seating areas and stretch almost as far down as the pool. The decked pool area was a stark contrast of the blue to the murky brown water of the river which was in full view from the raised decked. By the pool is a large stocked bar. Taking a walk along the elevated boarded walkways, sometimes ducking back down to the sandy ground level, we reach our luxury lodge.   Elephants wander freely around the site, as do other wild animals so we were escorted every time we wanted to leave the confines of our luxury tented lodge to go to the main dining and bar area. 

Chikunto is not a closed site, so waking up the next morning to the sound of branches being crushed and leaves rustling, a quick sneak peak revealed a Mum and baby elephant enjoying the greenery - right outside our lodge. Noisy eaters, without a care in the world - why would you when you’re that size! We sneakily watched from the balcony as they, without any rush, moved away onto greener pastures. A

fairly relaxing day, we weren’t due on a game drive until later, so popped into the shower, with its window overlooking the river. Busily going about my shower, and lo and behold another pair of elephant wander by.  Oblivious to my human presence as they too enjoyed their breakfast of leaves barging their way through anything that was in their way. Bearing in mind the elephant activity was fairly prolific we called for an escort back to the main area for breakfast and were escorted, flanked by two staff. More than one time we were asked to stop and keep still, we didn’t even see the elephant one time! 

Food at Chikunto Lodge is an art. And to appreciate it, you first feast with your eyes. Colourful and tasty food the set menu satisfied us every meal. They even had afternoon drinks and cakes - just in case you needed to eat some more food! Dining at night was a whole new experience with the mosquitoes on the first night enjoying their dining experience too. Learning from this, rubbing anti-mosquito all over did the trick for subsequent nights so we could enjoy our dining experience listening to the sounds of Africa. The game drives around South Luangwa Park were as good as we were promised with our return to the park and the road directly off the river is a lady lion - I say lady lion as she was not to be moved, adopting a regal stance. Basking in the sunshine and quite happy laid on the sandy road. When you come across one female lion, it is likely she isn’t alone, but as masters of disguise, it took us some time to spot her buddies in the long grass, just at the side of the road. It never ceases to amaze us how

large lions actually are, even the females are not to be messed with, despite them looking lazy and lounging around. Pure bred killers which one can certainly admire - from afar. After a long wait she did move over and we could drive around the game park taking in water covered with weeds it was unbelievable that this wasn’t land until you see the tell tale signs of those eyes popping up, sometimes with a pink tinge, the hippo were out taking a look at us as we spied them. Cheeky young monkeys jump around and play in the sunshine, chasing each other and revelling in the joy of their game, which is actually a way of learning their pecking order.  Monitor Lizards skulk into the muddy pools, which you can only see as they slip along

leaving a slight wake behind them.  Zebra, elephant and back to the same two giraffe as we circle back round the same route back passing skittish impala whose beautiful big dark brown eyes are like being mesmerised into a watery blackness. Back on the boat and we’re heading upstream to Chikunto Lodge whereupon we disembark our small speed boat to be told to wait a while as a fully grown elephant wanders past us. The elephant seem to like Chikunto Lodge as much as we do! 

On the late afternoon game drive and we see Wild Dog - Ok we’ve seen them before, and we’ve talked about them being endangered, so to see them again - wow.  In truth we didn’t see the dogs first, we saw a small brown cob (buck) on a ledge below the raised river bank but not quite in the water. Wondering what on earth it was doing there we first thought it had fallen off and started to make our way towards it,

but keeping our distance. Then we spotted the dogs on the top bank who had clearly chased the cob and were encircling it on the upper bank, not allowing it to escape. That poor cob had a choice, go up and let the dogs get him or go in the water and let the crocodile get him - that’s not much of a choice and we spent a long time watching it play out, yet mindful to not interfere with mother nature yet secretly willing the cob to escape. After some time we left the cob and the dogs and disembarked at our chosen bank not too far away.  Quickly jumping into the safari vehicle we make a bee line to the place where the cob was, to watch, very closely the beautiful wild dogs hovering around the ledge. Not knowing if the cob had escaped or had a horrible end, eventually the dogs wandered off.  A short while afterwards, up jumps the cob. Skittish and wary of any dogs before bounding off into the bush. The dogs weren’t in sight now and a little cheer escaped our lips as we watched that one lonesome little cob find his was back to his mates with a story to tell of how he cheated the dogs and the crocodiles. 

Back to the lodge with our own story to tell and a wonderful dinner and lovely nights sleep. Next morning and in no particular rush to leave this luxury resort on the river, we amble along the boardwalk to breakfast and just enjoy the comfort on offer before returning back to our nomadic life on the road as we make our way to Malawi, our seventh African country to visit.

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A Magical Migration

It may surprise you to learn that the migration of wild animals is across a lot of Africa, not just the known tourist ones of Kenya and Tanzania.

Travelling through the Central Kalahari we head East to re-join back into the North West side of Botswana.

A quick overnight at a pretty decent campsite, Symponia, set us up for our re-emergence back into Botswana as we head towards Maun.

On this trip, we have been to Botswana before but only the South and East of the country, we wanted to see the North and West, hence chose Maun as our base.  And we’d heard good things about this fairly touristy area too.

Our accommodation in Maun was at Island Safari lodge, a really nice selection of self contained thatch roof buildings dotted along the dry river bed.  There is  also a couple of pools to relax in and a camping area too - but we were lucky to have
stayed in on of the lodges.

Using Island Safari Lodge as our base, we set off super early, before sunrise, destination Moremi Game Reserve.  Slightly blurry eyed and the cold wind bashing us to pieces in the open air game viewing vehicle, it struck me how much more comfortable the Andi the Landy is!  

As the day dawned and the park grew closer, we were on decent roads, and to our surprise a mother leopard popped up to cross the road right in front of us - with two incredibly cute cubs dashing like blurs behind her.  Never keeping still, and like a flash they were gone.  Mum however hung around for a little while so we could get some good photos.  Im not sure if she just liked posing, or whether she took the opportunity to get a break from her demanding babies, but she gave us plenty of opportunity to see her in fine condition.

Back and forth the little family went, crossing near a dried up stream, with the babies being difficult to capture on a regular camera, but caught in action beautifully on our ‘big camera’  

In truth the big camera is no bigger than any other - the lens however is a Sony 200-600 lens, heavy, unbalanced and perfect for this type of
photography.

We spent some time with the leopard and her cubs before moving on, and to our delight, next up we saw a pack of wild dog.

Looking dishevelled and on some kind of hunt, they were split into pairs as they circumnavigate around their intended target.

Wild Dog are on the endangered list, in fact they are one of the worlds most endangered mammals, so to see a pack in Botswana, is fantastic.  Their breeding program and hopefully their ultimate removal from the endangered list is soon to come.  We have also seen wild dong in the Kruger National park in South Africa.

But this sighting of them going about their hunt, was extra special.

Wild Dog are incredibly efficient hunters, splitting up into pairs or individuals but using all pack instincts to encircle and hunt down their quarry.

They did look a bit mangey,  but you couldn’t get away form how very different each dog was, yet they all carried the striking colours known to their species of red, black, brown, yellow and white.  Beautiful markings, despite the slight tufty appearance.

The wild dog didn’t worry about us being there, and eventually moved away looking less like they were hunting and more like they were off for an early morning constitutional.

We hadn’t even reached Moremi at this stage, so were delighted to have seen these two, very special wild animals without much effort.

Botswana is a great place to discover game, and once in Moremi we saw so many types of other animals that to list would just be boring, but rest assured, there is plenty to see.

A long day animal sight seeing and we head back to Island Safari Lodge, and would you believe, we saw the same Leopard, with a kill.  Under the shade of a bush.  Smelly and obviously nutritionally delicious, if you like day old cape buffalo that is!  The cubs were no where is sight, having hidden them as she was distracted by making the most of her kill.

Devouring a kill can attract other wild animals, so to hide her cubs is perfectly normal, its not as if she was eating for herself and not allowing the cubs to have their share, she is being a Mom and protecting her young!

Back at Island Safari Lodge and a quick dip in the ever so welcome pool before dinner and an early night.

Next day we got to go on the owners caterpillar - now thats not a sentence I ever thought I’d write.  A clever design of multiple carriages he used to track around their own mini-safari and to carry the staff  up to and from the main gate.

Our mini-safari was lovely especially as we got to see a really large owl, the African Eagle Owl, who was a bit camera shy.  You can wander around Island Safari Lodge yourself too, with plenty of walking and for the more energetic amongst us, running tracks.  There is definitely a peace about being there and if you want a good night sleep, in comfortable beds, the works too.

Heading towards Makgadikgadi, we approach SKL camping, who with their knowledge point us to one of the lovely campsites.  There is still a park entry fee to pay, but this fee covers Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pan.

Shortly after entering the game reserve, we stumble upon thousands of Zebra and wildebeest.  Moving ever so slowly out of our way the zebra wide bums looking more like a bar code overload with the off wildebeest popping up in the middle.

It seems zebra and wildebeest are best buddies as they often hang out together, safely in numbers??

Slowing and purposely moving aside, the zebra didn’t seem at all concerned that Andi the Landy was chugging behind gradually being enveloped by a carpet of wild animals.  In biblical proportions, it was a bit like the parting of the sea as they swung back in behind us as we made slow progress along the sandy road.

Well we thought we were on the road, we couldn’t really tell as the animals had turned it up so much, we actually couldn’t see the road.

Finding our campsite, we were the only ones there so had the pick of where to pitch our camp.  But before we set up our camp and settled in for the night, we went on a late afternoon self driven game drive.

Sitting high on a bank in Andi the Landy overlooking what would have normally been a gushing river, we watched the elephant, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, cape buffalo, ostrich and so many other animals tracking from the left heading right.  So many animals in one relatively small area was as sight to behold.  We were later told that the animals had headed north but there was so little water they can back to this now drying up river - and whilst sad in some ways - how lucky are we to see this!

In the sparse water, with hippo wallowing, it seemed to satisfy the animals before they moved on in packs or as individuals, it was quite difficult to tell as there were so many animals per square foot.  Not fighting for water or causing any upset, they lived in harmony, sharing and going about their own business with purpose - what that purpose was, we don’t  know, and why they were all heading the same way, we don’t know either.  But we do know this sighting is one of the best we’ve had of a mass of animals in any one area.

Back at the camp, and an early night after dinner as we planned an early morning game drive to catch the wake-up animals.  Listening to lion at night, some sounded very close indeed, we had a relatively fitful sleep.
 

Next morning we woke to big lion paw prints on the earth by our camp site.  Glad of not needing a wee at night, we quickly packed away as the sun rose once again and set off to the same high ridge.

To our amazement, there just as many animals, but this time heading left.  Mother nature and the all knowing direction of wild animals will continue to amaze us.  We stopped and watched for a while, then drove slowly through Makgadikgadi toward Nxai Pan.

Splitting the large herds of animals as we went, we entered Nxai Pans and decided to take the long drive round to the back of Baines Baobabs.  So named after the famous painter and explorer Baines.  This clump of excessively large trees are known as the sleeping sisters.  Seeing them in the flesh really does show the sheer size, in girth and in height, as they hang onto a little island of green in amongst the vast expanse of the white salt pans.

In the far distance you can see the bush, you can even see elephant looking bemused at our attempt to do circles on the pans, and failing in the lumpy old landrover.

Back to Maun after a long couple of days getting up early, self driving around it was so to be back for a restful night at Island Safari Lodge.

Travelling north, keeping the stunning Okavango Delta on our right.  Catching glimpses of the reflective calm waters we arrive at our next camp site.  Under the shade of trees, the site wasn’t the best, as the mosquitoes took a liking to the ever present cooler and darker areas under the huge tree canopy.

Next day we moved on and found a nice campsite by the water itself.  We even managed to get some hand washing done to replenish our dwindling wardrobe, which in truth is limited to start with!

Camping next to the water brings its own noises as hippo grunt at night and the continuous background of the crickets as the sun sets.  As campers, we often
refer to ourselves as the great unwashed, and with the campsites being along way form the main building, (20 minutes walk away), they thought so too. Mind you the walk through woodland teeming with the pretty spotted bushbuck, who were obviously used to people wandering by was lovey to see.

Not quite tame, but certainly not worried by our ambling presence.

Night time is not a good time to be wandering around with so many hippo about, so we made sure we were back to our campsite before dusk, drinking a gin and tonic - for medicinal purposes of course then clamber into bed to listen to the hippo and other far distant but welcoming night noises as we drift off to sleep, safe and comfforbtale in our Bush Company roof top tent.

After a couple of days we were ready to get going again, so cross back into Namibia, and travelled along the Caprivi Strip.  Something’ve always wanted to do hearing stories of wild life roadside - we didn’t see a thing except one kudu, but it was nice to route ourselves along this iconic, long tarmac strip of land and stay for one night next to Poppa Falls in Shametu Lodge - I even took the opportunity to have a back, neck and shoulder massage so felt pretty nimble by the time we left and headed towards Zambia.

Ready to take on a whole new country.

Steve and Sarah in front of Poppa Falls

Caprivi Strip camping

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Play golf in Lusaka - video

 

Click on the above link to watch our 4 minute review of three amazing golf courses, where to stay and places to eat in style all in and around Lusaka, the capital of Zambia.  

In this video we share our half century course, what a course to celebrate our half way mark on too.

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Sarah & Steve

Discovering Golf in Zambia

As part of our Africa 100 challenge, we played 12 golf course in Zambia, as we travelled from Livingstone, to Lusaka, to the Copperbelt to Chipata.

This is about our golf discoveries as we explore Zambia in Andi the Landy.

Crossing from the Caprivi Strip, Namibia, and were in a whole new African country - brand new to us and a country we knew little about.  Arriving into Livingstone we could see the mighty Zambezi river - from he other side.

Arriving at Livingstone Royal Golf and Country Club we were mobbed by a plethora of caddies, each wanting to caddy for us.  Crowded but feeling slightly bemused by the attention we had gained, we left the club and contacted the managers to arrange a game, which we duly did as our golf course number 46.

Two decent caddies and we were taken around a course that was 18 holes, but with the lack of funds they are only showing and playing 9 holes.  When I say two decent caddies, we were actual assigned three.  A caddy each, plus a spare??  The third caddy was the flag caddy, his job was to watch the incoming ball and be ahead of our group to put the flag in the hole as we played up towards the green.  Once on the green and we were putting, whether we want the flag in or not, it was whipped out as he hot trot it to the next hole to be our flag caddy all over again.  Whilst we have had three caddies before, we’ve never had one assigned to the flag!  This was anew golfing experience to us.  In truth the course could have been in much better condition, so it really didn’t matter too much about the flag, besides the greens weren’t that good, so we allocated a maximum of two putts per green, then moved on, chasing the flag caddy!  Besides, along with our caddies, we were having a nice time walking on this relatively flat piece of ground.

The club house harks back to the British colonial, still imposing and resplendent on the outside, lacking some care when inside, but it was clean and it was functional, and we were
told the members had undergone a ‘sprucing up time to make it as good as it was, but also admitted, there was some way to go yet. The winners boards tell the story of this clubs history and it was great to re-live the stories of yesteryear.

We stayed at the Waterfront Hotel, first for camping, then in one of their rooms, which we’ll show you in the next article but mark my words, its a perfect location right next to the Zambezi River when staying in Livingstone.

Making our way to Lusaka, we arrive at Choma.  Such a friendly welcoming club and the members we met were just as lovely.  Built in 1958, the relative small membership of around 60 keep abreast of the clubs activates and needs via an active club WhatsApp chat.

With watering by bore holes, the dry conditions  can get a bit away of the desire to make this a great course.  Some of the par three’s have trees in the way, which means standing on the tee, there’s a choice of under or over, which is always a fun challenge.  The greens are generally quite good though, and in the heat were kept slightly longer so they didn’t die back, which was sensible.  You do have to be careful as the locals pop up and don’t take heed of it being on a golf course as they wander around, so you as the golfer have to remain extra vigilant.  Finishing after golf, there is a lovely place to sit under a plant clad pergola, which gives the whole feel of a soft and welcome approach and a nice place to have a cold drink after 9 holes of golf.

Quite close but just a little further North, we arrive at Mazabuka golf course.  The increase in members, with Mazabuka has risen to around 80 members. 

Fairly decent tees, fairways and greens, with many small mountains of worm casts on the day we played.   But the ball rolled well on the greens, it wasn’t a major problem.  Chatting to the caddies, it was nice that the club encourage these young people and offer a caddy membership.  This builds a strong golf community from the bottom up and you really couldn’t fault the caddy involvement, with Kwl running ahead of our group to turn the sprinklers off.  Strange you might think to be watering during the day, but the water is  waste product from the local sugar factory.  This great little find was established in 1926 and a wonderful place for a stop-over on the road to Lusaka which is just 3 hours drive away.  Its a well thought our course with hole 8 being a challenge with huge trees either side and a - what seemed tiny, gap to drive through off the tee.  In the match, Steve got 2 ahead after 2 holes, but by some swift and pretty decent golf, I pulled it back and even went 1 ahead.  Culminating in a respectful half, as we birdied the final hole.  Nice pretty course in pretty decent condition. 

Next stop and its another capital city in Africa - Lusaka is the capital of Zambia, not as hectic as some we’ve been to, but still a decent size and fairly sprawling. Our first attempt at AirBNB accommodation failed miserably as the place was simply tiny - obviously we can't complain about that after living in a landrover, but it wasn’t at all comfortable either.  And as we can move on, we did!

We met with some lovely members at Lusaka Golf Club and made arrangements to play there.  Whilst we’ve been travelling towards the capital, with the courses getting gradually better, we had high hopes for Lusaka GC, and we weren’t disappointed.  Even the water being the magnets for my golf balls didn’t detract from the good golf course it is.  Dog legs and pretty good greens made a nice change in Africa.  Shapely greens and nicely managed fairways, Lusaka was a
real treat.  

Big trees dominate the course in places, whether they are mangoes, African flames trees or Fenella trees with her huge orange trumpet flowers. It is clear this old club has been designed with thought for its aging process.  Par 3’s over water and bunkers that play well, but the overriding sense of this course is one of lush green. Varying shades of green graduate from the trees down to the grass.  Just genuinely nice holes to play and a genuinely nice course in all with a bit of a tropical feel that was so welcome at this stage in our journey  Caddies dressed in blue boiler suits look the part too- and they knew their stuff, yet didn’t try to tell us how to play golf - the perfect combo.

For a golf course in the capital city of an African country - Lusaka Golf Club is very nice, very nice indeed and a great experience we are glad to share.

Overnight at Ciela Hotel - part of the Bonanza Estate, and the third world luxury is far surpassed by the expected norm of European luxury.  

Better still as we hit the half way mark for our Africa 100 Challenge and played Bonanza Golf Course as our celebration reaching our half century

And what a place to embrace this milestone?

This Louis Van Der Walt course willingly adopted by Peter Matkovich putting it together with Ciela offers a world class golfing experience.

Slightly more open than Peter’s other courses, but with trees planted, this course will only but improve with age - like a good wine, they say.

The stylish on-site hotel is almost modern Spanish in appearance and as the first couple of holes sweep around the hotel, you get a good look at your accommodation wrapped up in the golf course.

Huge greens with some really interesting undulations, in all its near perfect.  The course has been built to be the centre stage of some top world wide golf tournaments.

If I had to be super critical, some par 3’s were a bit lack lustre, but again time will improve that, as their overall appearance and playability matures.  So I really can’t make that too much of a negative!

In fact it is much more difficult to write a course review when everything is just amazing, so lets focus on the amazing.  Lovely big trees set further away from the fairways give it the open appearance, its an easy walkable course and there is clever use of the bushes and shrubbery. We loved the personal care and influence of the ladies replanting the grass - small tuft by small tuft - all done by hand - but most importantly, they didn’t look miserable and seemed quite happy to be doing this relative menial task.  The beauty being, in just a couple of weeks with the wonderful Zambia weather, we will have full fledged grassy verges whose vibrant green defy the short amount of time it took to get to this stage.

In truth, Bonanza is a great course.

Back to the large white fluffy bed to relax in Ciela - well why not - we have played 50 golf courses you know!

I’ll tell you more about Ciela and the fantastic gastronomy in the next article.

Course number 51 is Chainama Hills, a course with no golf carts, so we walked. 
Walking does give you another perspective, one that enables you to really see the course - taking your time instead of whizzing about in a golf cart, its real grass roots stuff

Of the three in and around the capital city, Chainama is probably the weakest one, but it really isn’t that bad, just shows up against Bonanza and Lusaka golf courses.

Slightly fluffy around the edges the fairways and greens were kept quite long.  This did make putting slow and took us a few holes to get used to.  But as the weather is so hot it is the greens that can suffer if they are cut to short.  Interesting observation from Steve, the there is some familiarity about Chainama, you can see the English parkland influence, which also makes it not really African looking yet it is.  A lovely green course where keeping straight is fairly key to scoring well.

Leaving Lusaka, we still have so much to discover in Zambia.  We’d heard about good golf in the Copperbelt region, so instead of following the usual touristy routes we, via the landrover garage!,  set our sights on the Copperbelt.

Our first golf course heading North was Nkana in Kitwe whose clubhouse was so
clean as the people are welcoming. 

Smaller than we were used too greens the opening hole was a nice straight hole.  A nice fluffy bunker in the way made the green appear a smaller target too.  The course isn’t pretending to  be something special, it is what it is and what it is is very very good.  Sandy in places, it makes you think you’re playing on one of the good named Surry courses in England. Small deep bunkers of varying sizes give you something to think about too and with the pine straw (pine needles) thickly laid up, you think you can be the next Phil Mickelson and hit a stinger from underneath the trees and land on the green.  Being realistic, its far more likely to go under with the club head and pop the ball up into the overhanging pine trees.  Then you could find one of those deep lost pot hole bunkers which are dotted around.  There are a few man-made water features with the 18th being home to a monster water feature.  A crescent of water wraps itself around the green in tiers.  A nicely bedded in course which showed and played well despite the rough being quite punishing.

Nchanga golf club was up next - what is it about the letter N preceding the names?

Originally supported by the mines and hopefully getting an opportunity to get that support back again.  There wasn’t really anyone around, except a bunch of guys wanting to caddy for us.  Eventually the Captain came and all was settled, we set to play golf.  Leaving the slightly run down clubhouse behind, it soon became apparent that while the equipment was there to maintain the course, there was no-one who had the skills to maximise the equipment, which was a real shame.  The on-going costs were beginning to bite, and we sincerely hope that the course doesn’t get too much out of hand before this gets sorted out?

It is one of those courses that doesn’t deserve to go wild.  With no running
water the caddy’s use an on-course stream to dampen down the towels - now we are not going to comment on how clean that stream might be - we did after all get clean golf balls!  Many nice holes and with water courses dissecting the fairway fairly frequently, it again had an English parkland feel about it.

The kikuyu grass was thick in places, it has a tendency to thicken up and can be difficult to play from as it grabs the club, but the upside is, it gives a lush green overall appearance..  The bunkers were hard grey ‘sand’ and whilst hard in appearance, they played surprisingly well.  We loved the big brown structural boulders around the course and we loved the nice friendly chatty caddies who themselves played off 9 and 11 handicaps.

The score now sitting at Steve 26 and Sarah 27, I was keen to capitalise on my usually slight lead, but could I?

Overnight in the Royal Solweizi Hotel and we’re pretty far north in Copperbelt country now. Next stop was a Peter Matkovich course, in a copper mine to play Trident in Kalumbila.

private course built for the employees who utilise the clubhouse and all its splendour to the hilt, its their place, and the relish in it.  And so they should, as its beautiful.

A central meeting point for many an employee, this is the hub of Trident golfers.  18 holes sweep and sway around the hills, never once giving sight of the mines or even an indiction the the mines are even there!  Peter must have pulled out all stops for this course, with its reflective water not so much bringing the sky down on you as reflecting the wonderful clear blue sky with the odd white cloud fringed with a menacing grey.

I was just about to chip in (well I say that) when the sprinklers take on a lease of life and with great pressure, decide to create rainbows against the sun, and get you slightly wet in the process too!  The easy to play bent grass offered enough resistance to make the golf ball act as you’d like.  Offset by the deep red African soil looking resplendent.  With greens receiving the golf ball with open arms, it wasn’t unusual to make a pitch mark, something we hadn’t been able to do much in the past!

Despite it being wet underfoot and the ball rolling a bit slower, you just can’t fault the fantastic condition Trident is in.  Bird song was quickly replaced by thunder as we approach hole 5.  A deep carnivorous ravine ready to swallow up the golf balls and despite it being stroke index 17, it's a thought provoking hole.  I laid up, then put in into the ravine, which was destined to eat my golf ball come what may! Hole 6 with its tee on high gives a wonderful view of the reflective lake, calm and mesmerising and the doubly dramatic blackening sky reflecting back.

Sadly the rain got the better of us, and we stopped after 7 holes, but returned the next morning to complete our game. and what better way to start than the par 3, 8th, with water on one side and plenty of space the other.  Arriving at hole 18 all too quickly, this par 3 over the water onto an island green - a real island green with its slight downturned edges dipping its toes into the mass of water.  It is a great finishing hole - mind you, if you’ve got a good stroke play score, you might just submit your card with 17 holes played!  With a bunker at the front, what could possibly go wrong?

With such an amazing club facility the food had something to live up to - and it did, by the bucket load.  Lovely tasty food too

We had the perfect hostess in so many ways and are grateful for the friendships we developed whilst at Trident.

Back to the N’s and our next stop heading back towards Lusaka to play Ndola, our now 55th golf course in Africa.  A nice friendly start as we got to meet the President and Lady President of the Zambia Golf Association, who seemed really pleased to have us promoting golf in Zambia.

When you meet really nice people who are figure heads for the game of golf, then you know that golf is in secure hands.  We chatted for a while, discussing the merits of golf in Zambia, then we tee’d off and were in the throat of this nicely established parkland course sitting just on the edge of a busy metropolis.  Slightly brown in places, but the overriding lush green still prevails.  James, our caddy was
as good as gold and led us perfectly around the course, that in truth we might have struggled to find our way around.  The watering systems pump had failed on
one part of the course, so the greenskeepers were managing it by throwing buckets of grey water on to the greens to keep them alive. Yet despite the varying watering levels the greens did play quite well and as some of the greens were hidden it made for some interesting approach shots.  

Fairways with not too long or short grass, just perfect, played well too, the bunkers weren’t raked the best and looked hard, but again played better than they look, although I did use the putter twice to get out of a couple of them!

With the thicker edges marking the rough didn’t make it easy as the ball could either nestle down or stand proud on the grass - guess which one I had!

We did like hole 14, a long par 5 which was shapely and had a raised green to contend with.

At this point, I felt it necessary to say to my caddy, ‘I can play to my 12 handicap - honestly’

His response - ‘not on this course!’ had me in peels of laughter - its always good to have a caddy with humour - whether he meant it not!

The clubhouse is dark and looks slightly unkempt, maybe its a case of the money spent on the course or on the clubhouse? I don’t know, but it didn’t exude warmth or a welcome at the end of your round.

Back in Lusaka and staying again at the stunning Ciela Hotel.  We are invited to play a unique nine hole course, a private course owned by one gent in his ‘back garden’ 

Nabbobwe is a really nice nine hole course, quirky in its design, but that is also fun.  Wild animals roam freely and you might find your approach shot is over a swimming pool, but who cares- well maybe the bathers might!

Built and designed by the owner, he even has a bar area where his guests can take a break overlooking the Chalimbana River- now that’s classic with it only being nine holes!   But as you can play it as 18 holes, why not!

A huge pen contain a mass of crocodile, with the oldest being around 70 years, but don’t worry crocs don’t roam freely - the only wild animals that roam freely are nice ones - not fluffy or cuddly, just not predators - but they are still wild animals.  

But don’t be surprised to see ducks, zebra, giraffe peacocks, impala wandering around, living in harmony with each other.

This private park also doubles up as a day tripping family get away form Lusaka.  Families are encouraged to take a day out and enjoy this gently undulating land, even if they don’t play golf!

We played with the owner, and one of his friends, both are chatty, friendly and a bit of a laugh too. Some really narrow exits off the tee, namely hole 6 with its trees either side and the day we played grazing waterbuck just ‘resting’ on the fairway, assuming as most non-golfers do, that golfers can actually play golf!  Once over the waterbuck and under the tree canopy the approach shot is over the swimming pool to a green that slopes back to front.  Talk about a challenge.

There were plenty of trees in the way, but it was really nice to be invited to play this fun course - and whilst it might be positioned as ‘by invitation only’ it isn’t.  Nabbobwe is open to the public.

A sad goodbye to Lusaka, which we enjoyed so much and we reach our final golf course in Zambia - a course we really wanted to play because of its history and its heritage.

Chipata sits on the border of Zambia and Malawi, so we took a couple of days out exploring the area and of course playing their nine hole course.  Being a border town, as most border towns are, its a bit shabby.

Although initial appearance is one of lush green, when you play, it is very noticeable that the fairways haven’t been cut well, and in places, not at all.  When we asked about this, we were told the tractor had broken down.  

The caddy carries a tool, not too dissimilar to a rake, but without teeth.  In its place is a small metal roll about half a meter wide.  it could well be scaffold pole cut down - as it is quite heavy.

To set the scene Chipata is the oldest golf course in Zambia and therefore plays browns, not greens.  The browns were slow and very gritty, so the pole is dragged from the other side of the hole to where your ball landed -creating a ‘runway’ for the golf ball. 

Thinking this is so much easier, the runway keeps it in play and the ball will obviously drop it in the hole which was larger than normal golf holes with sloping edges inwards.

The ‘rake’ did make it smoother, but not by  much and when putting, you still need to aim and have some degree of accuracy- the speed is key to putting and scoring well.  Wearing shorts or a skort, the waist high grass of the fairways was a bit of a tickle along the fairways that weren’t mown

So a really interesting course, maybe not in the best way of interesting, but with the history, it really is nice to play Chipata.

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Next up Ill talk about Zambia as a country to visit, what else to see and do, so watch our for the next instalment of our golf and travel adventures around Africa.  be prepared for some pretty unique stories.