Overlanding Zimbabwe 3 - Eastern Highlands

We’ve been travelling around Zimbabwe for a few weeks and seen some pretty special things, and we’ve also played some pretty special golf too.  

On our way out of Zimbabwe heading towards Mozambique, we discover the Eastern Highlands.

If a scenic drive could be bottled and offered as a calming drug, the drive through and around the Eastern Highlands has got to be up there as a cure all.

Its peaceful ever changing yet captivating landscape keeps you interested as you take on one long drive after another.  From banana trees to tea plantations, with the latter being carefully planted and managed to bring you a ‘ploughed field’ effect of lush green bushes.  We relished seeing a motorcyclist giving another a tow - not obvious at first glance, but the lack of speed and of course the rope between them became evident after a while, as they tootled along, quite oblivious to us behind.

Stopping off at Froggy Farm, we were greeted by a friendly old gent, who clearly had many stories to tell, with a sense of humour similar to those of the Irish - in fact, we thought he was Irish, but no, Zimbabwean through and through!  Great little stop over for a coffee and to break up the journey, as well and take a look around their shop and cafe.

The local children on the roadside, always ready with a willing wave and a big cheeky grin, OK kids are kids and we did get the odd bum in the air (fully clothed) at times, instead of the wave, but that just added to their charm, and there’s always a naughty boy or girl  in every class!  Adults tending their farm animals, of goats and cows, or mums carrying their babies all welcoming us with an exuberant wave as we chug by.  Displaying an innocence which was endearing, and despite the nay sayers, we didn’t feel threatened or unwelcome at all.  Quite the opposite.

We camped at Hidden Rock on route to the Honde Valley where we stayed for a few nights at Aberfoyle Lodge.  Aberfoyle Lodge is a privately owned property with hotel rooms, and as we found out, a couple of houses away from the main hubbub of the lodge too.  We were in a quite a big house for two people, and really didn’t need all the bedrooms, but as we were away from the main lodge and hotel rooms, we also had out own security guard.  Fairly basic in its decor and comfort we made our way down to the main lodge daily to take on the challenge of the deeply rutted property entrance road.  Once inside the lodge complex, we swam, ate great food and also played nine holes of golf.  A really nice looking nine holes which dotted around the tea plantation with ease.  From the first tee, it isn’t that obvious you’re in a tea plantation, but once you get to hole 3 and make your way up this par 5 to a fairly shallow green, the vista view from tee 4 is awe inspiring as the regimental lines of tea bushes hug the fairway.  If you’re wanting a pristine, carefully manicured course, I dare say Aberfoyle isn’t it, or wasn’t it on the day we visited, but if you want a quirky or a good friendly course with exceptional views, Aberfoyle does fit the bill.  As there were no carts, we opted for a couple of caddies, who turned out to be fun loving nice guys too. 
They didn’t read the greens for you or even tell you what club to use, they simply carried the bag, chatted and were as friendly and as relaxing as we envisaged the road side wavers would be.  They did know where to hit the ball, and gave us direction for this, then it was up to us to do what they said - with a modicum of success.  With Stephen driving the green on hole number one, a fairly short par 4, whose yardage evaded us, and with a score card which didn’t represent the course at all for its stroke indexes either, it was a matter of trusting your own eyes and going for it.  Needless to say a nice birdie for Stephen on the first left me thinking, oh here we go again!  I think Stephen would have got an eagle if the fairly small target greens hadn’t been top dressed, and if the ball had rolled true.  But we weren’t there for that, we were there for some fun, and fun we had.  You could be mistaken
for thinking this course offered a little de ja vu as you play the nine holes, and you’d be right, as holes 2 and 7 and holes 1 and 8 share a green, which is fairly unusual in itself.  A golf course in a superb, yet unique location.  We loved the way the caddies embraced the fun we were having, and we loved that they were willing to have a go on the 7th hole over a water course.  All met with a lot of laughter and no problem if anything went slightly wayward.  

They did make a rash statement before we left, they guaranteed we wouldn’t loose a ball, and as  Steve
was on fire, well hitting a bit too well for this fairly short course, his new golf ball went careering into the woods at the back on hole 7.  None of us four could find it, yet the young local lads were up for the challenge, and set about tackling the bush as if hunting down a tiny small white dimpled prey.  We moved on and carried on playing, when all of a
sudden the group of young lads came running up, with the very same golf ball in hand!  Slightly shy, when asked who found it, one of them proudly patted himself on the chest - naturally he got a reward and we were all happy.

Being golf course number 19 of our Africa 100 challenge, I was happy to take the win, bringing our overall score to Stephen 10 and me 9 - I’m on on my way back!!  maybe!

A light lunch at the hotel afterwards was delicious, maybe winning made it more delicious but I’m not rubbing it in or revelling in my win, as I know this game can twist and buck with each course and game played. 

We also had a chance to look around the tea factory, where a young and enthusiastic ‘tea official in training’ showed us around the noisy factory as we saw the green leaves being processed and made into the black tea we know floating around in our tea bags.

It was sad to leave Aberfoyle, but even a landrover needs a rest from the bad track up to the house we stayed at - plus we needed to get on the road.

We were making our way to the Zimbabwe Mozambique border at Mutare, but first we had to stop at a cafe - not just any cafe, but Tony’s cafe. After a little look around Prince of Wales lookout where local handicrafts were on display and a really friendly young police man keeping a watchful eye for the tourists.  We’d been told to call off at Tony’s Cafe, not far from Leopard Rock Golf and Hotel, (sadly they didn’t want to work with us, so we can’t tell you about it, but we did take a sneak peak, and thought it could benefit from a bit of TLC)  Anyway, Tony’s cafe is upon a hill, set amidst a typical English garden setting, with prolific flowers and tall trees, all manicured and pleasing on the eye.  Tables and chairs were set up inside and out and the cake menu was as long as your arm - and tasted like heaven.

One final night in Zimbabwe in a campsite near Tony’s called Seldom Seen - we only just found it and as the camp site space was very small, they allowed us to stay in one of the driveways of one of their lodges and camp ‘in the bush', using the lodges facilities - such a kindness extend to us, and we can talk so positively as a result.

Next morning, a really early start - we’d seen the line of lorries snaking along the road and up the hill for the Mutare crossing, and we didn’t want to get caught up as we crossed over into Mozambique.  Passing the lorries was a bit sad, as these guys could have been waiting days and as car drivers we could just go through.  Once we got to the front of the queue, it wasn’t obvious what to do, so we engaged the services of a’fixer’ who basically pushed his way to the front of the line and ‘made things happen - this cost us USD10, but the sad thing upon leaving Zimbabwe, was the customs officials, both took USD20 each, to allow the fixer to push through and for them to process our exit quicker than usual.

All the time travelling through Zimbabwe, and contrary to what we’d been told, we been stopped multiple times, but never asked for a bribe, now as we leave this beautiful country, they take a bribe, a bribe to expedite our quick passage through, but a bribe nonetheless.

Not the best feeling to have when we’ve had such an amazing time in a beautiful country, a country we were warned not to go to and a country we are delighted we went to.

Next up Mozambique….

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