As we enter back into South Africa, there is a touch of nostalgia, a sense of homecoming alongside a sense of dread - it is true South Africa has changed considerably in the 30 odd years we’ve been visiting, but the beauty of this country brings us back again and again, and were so glad we did.
Entering at Kozi Bay was an easy transition through customs, carnet checked and stamped and the various other bits and pieces we needed to do as we cross the border from one country into another. It has to be said at this stage we have become known as the rain bringers and re-entry into SA was no exception, it was cold, it was damp and it was miserable, we didn’t hang around and quickly headed south with North Durban, moreover the Dolphin Coast being our goal.
Mind you we did stop at some pretty places on route, camping and staying in guest house - now that is something the South African’s do well - guest houses, so when you’re planning your trip, don’t be thinking you’d be staying in granny’s place, with lace on the back of the sofa and a cloth over the arms of the soft chairs. Don’t be expecting a knitted dolls with strange eyes draped over the spare toilet roll, with the toilet itself being clad in a clean but well used bobbly seat cover - no, guest houses in SA can be someone opening up their home to you, but the ones we experienced were actually separate units away from the main house or adjoining it, with breakfast in the room or help yourself or to join other guest in the dining room.
Through forest with trees so tall to an out of the way cheese shop, of all things, which sold very little cheese but loads of touristy nick naks. Pineapple fields as far as the eye could see, and the rest of the beautiful landscapes of South Africa opening up before our eyes.
Heading further south and the SA we have become to know; big shopping malls, begging on street corners and shining new buildings became more prolific. So we were a little surprised to see the road into Prince’s Great was not a tarmac one, so much so, we did a double check to make sure we were heading the right way, along the dirt road and then it opens up in its full glory, oh and what a sight it was too.
colonial style, its width lent itself to having amazing views over the course, as well as some cosy bars and eating areas downstairs. Further adopting the colonial ethos was the sweeping wooden stair case which dominated the eye from the lobby up to the first floor. We had room 6, at the end of a corridor which opened up into a huge room and a bathroom big enough for a party. A relaxing decor and comfortable room which overlooked the course with the distant views being of the white breakers on the ocean. There is so much to like about this place, but we had to tear ourselves away and go to play some golf!
registered it was another Peter Matkovich design. Peter is a designer very well known and respected on the African continent, and we were so happy to be playing yet another of his masterpieces. In fact, we decided to split up our game over two days. The first nine we played in the afternoon and the back nine we played early the following morning. And having those two times of the day, really enhanced our experience; one day was windy, the other not, one day was cooler, the other not, one day Stephen was grumpy, the other not!
Registering the name of the first hole, Temper Tantrum did cause a bit of a giggle from me, albeit a silent one, as I relish our marriage.
Then he settled down and we just enjoyed our game on a stunning course, which does undulate and does bring various challenges. Wooden boardwalks help protect the course but also allow you to appreciate the height you’re coming from as the cart clattered along the wooden walkway. Hole 2’s boardwalk gentle took us down and across water cascades, with water in play too. Aptly named hole 3 was a par three from an elevated tee called lookdown. A sneaky little pond front right could have been one of those, oh no moments, but we both avoided the water and landed safely without getting at all wet!
Whilst carts were allowed on the course, the cart path from the tees and towards the greens were nicely kept and easy on the bum as you can sometimes hold the boobs and hold your breath with some cart paths being like mini off-road adventures with tree roots impending the path - thank fully there was no boob holding moments at Prince’s Grant!
beckoned. Breakfast was in the somewhat dark and very warm restaurant downstairs. But the breakfast was exactly how I like it, well cooked bacon, a packed egg and a fresh tomato, a great way to approach the second half to our match.
Hole ten, ‘out again’ and Stephen had some work to do to catch up, well not too much work as I’d only finished two points ahead of him, despite his initial grumpiness!
There is always a clue in the name, with hole 12 being called bunkers, a relatively short par 4 downhill, with, you’ve guessed it, bunkers both left and right where the tee shot might land. A shapely little tree right and beyond that the bunkers, trying to hide behind the tree - most likely embarrassed with the amount of sand on this hole! Stephen seized the opportunity and got one of the those points back!
moment as you come towards the tee and the ocean opens up bright blue to the left - with big smacks of Kwana in Japan and to a lesser degree (maybe it was the sunshine) of Walsey in the Shetland Islands, its look and feel combined create a wonderful looking hole. An elevated tee, with the fairway leading you towards the hole, cleverly dotted with bunkers around it. Being a par 5, there were also bunkers along the fairway, as if holding invisible hands were grouped together, and were as magnetic as any as my ball came to rest on the head of the rake.
Two wonderful half days of golf two amazing nines on a great condition course with greens that test and are true. Wonderful undulations, up and down fairways, trees, sand - just a bit!! and in our opinion, whilst two great nines, we enjoyed the back nine more.
And, we have a winner - Sarah - score so far Steve 10, Sarah 10 - wahoo, who would have thought I could bring it back to level after that auspicious start!
Just half an hours drive south from Prince’s Grant we find ourselves playing another course on the Dolphin Coast. Umhlali (pronounced Um-shar-lee) was in the throes of a big club event, buzzing to the hilt, we were given matching golf shirts and got to play a round on this neat course too. The Opening hole was a dog leg left and
certainly tested our nerve as golfer after golfer came in to play in front of us. Another windy afternoon greeted us and as the greens rolled true, although they had only been hollow tined a couple of weeks before - we were glad to be out there. I did like the boards at the beginning of each hole, showing the whole hole layout, important when its a course you haven’t played before, and extra important to me as I was on a roll! I understand this was the first Peter Matkovich design course he did, and sure enough it did play and look differently too, not bad, just different - although his love for tee box planting remains the same, it seems! A nice
parkland course with bent grass, tree lined fairways and a buzzing clubhouse too. Fairy tight in places, it
was difficult to see if the golfers had finished the hole and stood on the next tee, or whether they were still on the green, but then again, we didn’t know the course, and I’m sure that perception changes when you’ve played Umhlali a few times. Hole 4 has water in front of the green, this par 4, raised tee is one to marvel at with the dead stick-like desert trees encircling the back of the green, bringing in a structure live ones might not. Visually a very pretty hole and nice to play too, although the sign, beware of falling branches was a little worrying - thank fully it wasn’t that windy!
A nice open course, although my ball did seek those bunkers once again - one actually stopped slightly short and I had to turn the club around and play it backwards, or stand in the bunker for the shot!
Loved the narrowing off the tee for hole 13, which did open up again and wasn’t really as narrow as it looked from the tee after all!
needed to be straight - so I decided to play a trick on Stephen - he’d got the wrong club, so I asked him what he wanted, a 5 iron he replied, so I passed him a sand wedge - well, 5 - S they do look similar! - fortunately he did notice before he played and did laugh, although I can’t believe he didn’t believe his caddy!
We loved wearing those shirts, although I did wish I hadn’t got a patterned skort to wear with it as it looked like I’d got dressed in the dark that morning? Not to be deterred, I hitched up my skirt and just wore the shorts underneath, making my spare tyre extra pronounced, but at least I didn’t clash! A really good members course and a great compliment to play when staying at Prince’s Grant. Such a nice course to play and in great condition, especially those trefoil shaped greens.
Oh and Steve won, so I'm quickly glossing over that, overall score - Steve 11, Sarah 10
Using Prince’s Grant as your base, you’re just 40 mins from another great golf course, Zimbali. A slightly cooler start after God’s light show the previous night and the inevitable accompanying rain - don’t forget we are the rain bringers!
against the grey sky. A nice start to the course then you take a longish drive to the 2nd tee whereupon you’re greeted with a slightly different looking course - still fresh and green, but the hole weaved and bent around some water on the inside left - a really clever hole in it’s par 4 design, with options being water left or bunkers right, off the tee or on the approach. A nice big shapely green welcomes the brave.
We discovered that neither of us were hitting as well as usual, with the 3rd hole taking me ages to get to as I thrashed around hitting one shot after the other! A couple of birdies did appear later in the round, so I clearly settled into this wonderful exciting course and we both ended up scoring quite well.
Hole 5 gave us views of the ocean, ok it was a bit of a dull day but the distant ocean views were just as pleasing, and one that any golfer, or anyone who enjoys sea and golf views would revel in. A long snaking road gives you a clue as to the rise uphill towards the green.
It was great to see members playing and enjoying the course too, we got chatting to a few at the half way house, which is a modern building with tantalising pies - which of course we had to have!
The disadvantage of stopping at the half way house, some golfers stay longer than others, and we did get a bit stick behind a couple of slow golfers, who waved us through quite quickly, to restore pace of play.
stream, punctuated by a rocky brook, which was purpose built but made to look natural at first glance. Little cascades of water plopped into pools beneath, before continuing along their journey to the next cascade. Showing the odd water lily and delightful static basins of resting water. With stunning vista views come see hairy cart paths, but in truth they were fun too. Houses intersperse at various points along the course, sadly we couldn’t get the drone up, being respectful of the residents. But just working our way around, did give us a great sense of
what this resort offers its residents and visiting golfers. We loved the playing style
and design of this course, a course for any golfer, with the cooler day being our friend. It is a golf course full of surprise, mostly as its cleverly fits in around the houses, plus you get a nice surprise as you enter a new tee, without
having been given the preview from previous holes. Definitely a cart course with not so much of a hidden gem, as 18 hidden gems with established trees and monkeys watching you’re every move. A great day out and a wonderful one to complete our trio on the Dolphin Coast of South Africa.
Twenty two courses played, next stop Durban as we continue south discovering more golf and living the landrover life.
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